@guy

Too funny! I found the thread mentioned in my comments below and sure enough, you are the one providing input. You must be an LR legend!

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...tarter-104893/

Just had trouble starting it again and this time the engine warning came on (P0345 code). Also, after shut it off, noticed coolant leak from right side as well. Never a dull moment. If you or anyone has any words of wisdom, feel free to pass them along.

 

No legend…. but I do have many decades of experience with Jags. And the engineering is similar across these marques.
Typically, the number one cause for “irrelevant” codes is a poor battery state.
That is the reason why the pinpoint tests rule the easy fix out of the way, first.

Not only does the battery need to read 12.6 v, but there needs to be enough capacity (available cold cranking amps).
Get that leak fixed asap. It will be much cheaper than replacing the engine.

 

@guy or any other LR Experts:

Replaced everything recently and my 2013 LR4 gremlin is back. Replaced all of the coolant hoses, including the water pump, etc... Also, replaced all of the plugs and cam sensors. Ran perfectly for two weeks. This morning, same issue appeared with no start as referenced a few times above. Same old 4x4 screen appeared as occurred in the past. Also, got a low battery warning. It eventually started w/ the warning for the cam code.

My local LR shop was positive they nailed the issue with replacing everything under the sun. My local shop is closed today, but wanted to confirm if they checked the ground wire as well. I read a few post regarding this simple issue preventing starts, but it still would not explain the cam error. Or does trying to start multiple times trip the cam error code????

Any help or insight would be great. At the end of my ropes with this car and the wife is not happy as well, lol.

Thank you!

 

There’s your answer: “low battery”. We have been over this before. The outstanding question is “Why?”

1.
a. Rarely is a new replacement battery fully charged. I would fully charge it while not connected to the vehicle. If after resting for 24 hours without charge and it does not read at least 12.6v, the battery is done. (Besides, the 24 hours the vehicle is not connected to a electrical source will set the ecm back to factory, thus clearing those non persistent status codes)
b. If the blower motor is noisy, replace it. But it would be very rare indeed if the blower motor was drawing more current then as designed.
2. And all of those connections need to be clean and tight.
3. Then, your usage pattern:
To start engine
a. Turn off ALL accessories first. Yes, that includes lights, stereos, fans, …
b. Do not depress pedal and press and release the start button
c. Wait for all dings and chimes to stop
d. Depress pedal and touch start button again
e. Once engine is running smoothly, then turn on your accessories.

To stop engine
a. Turn off ALL accessories first.
b. Depress start button.

If you are driving short trips down to a corner store frequently, and not a longer drive; your vehicle does not have enough time to replenish the battery to full capacity. (This can be mitigated by not turning on all accessories. The blower motor itself is a electrical pig if set on high.)
Unless of course, the generator is on its way out.

I am still not convinced it is not a battery issue. Possibly a generator issue. And have no evidence to support that its a managed module issue. But while on that topic, does your vehicle have a Battery Management System (BMS) module? If so, it must be reset after battery installation.