When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Oh, didnt see that was a RR Sport. Yea waaaay easier to replace that pump. That saves 95% of the effort and will probably take you like 1hr to replace it. Couple quick tips:
- make sure to clear around the rim of the flange really well, because little pebbles get stuck up under it and will fall in the tank when you remove it.
- run your tank down to empty to make it much easier to work on.
there is a "special tool" to remove the fuel tank gasket, but I was able to remove it with a punch and hammer, evenly tapping all the way around it
- take pictures of how the old pump is situated, because its a bit confusing and you cant see all the way inside and have to do it by feel...and the workshop manual for the 2016 LR4 showed pictures of an older pump that didnt have the fuel filter attached. So I spent 1hr trying to figure out how to get it all back together. In mine the pump is at the bottom of the tank and there is a hose connecting to filter thats fitted at the top of the tank. You need to twist to unlock/lock the pump in place and thats a big tricky. Then the fuel filter slides in on a rubber rail at the top of the tank. Properly documented it would take 2 mins, but LR isn't know for their documentation.
Wow. Really detailed information. And yea, the documentation from LR sucks pretty bad. BTW, I was able to find the live data for the fuel pump further down the list and it does seem to fluctuate quite a bit. At idle it went down to 64psi for a brief moment while desired was 79psi but shoots back up with throttle. So, maybe it’s on its way out - IDK. But I do have the tool to open the tank. I’m going to keep monitoring the pressures for now though. Thanx for thr info.
I had this same code of DTC P0089-64 'fuel pressure regulator performance'. My indy got me this far to obtain the fault but said since it was a PCM software fix, I had to go to the dealer. The dealer charged me $220 for an hours labor even though the service bulletin put out by Land Rover say's it's a .2 hour fix.
Once reset and I left the dealer, I literally restarted the car twice and now the ECO stop/start light is on and will not come off.
Reading through the service bulletin, I see the following language - "Connect the Jaguar Land Rover-approved battery power supply to the vehicle startup battery."
This makes me think the ECO start/start disable not being avaialbe is related to how they serviced/reset the light. Any thoughts on this from the LR hive?
I had a similar thing. The issue was my eco battery was dead but for some reason the check engine light never came on. After I did the PCM update it must have reset the system and the eco light came as I started the car to leave the shop. They tested and found the battery was in fact dead. And after thinking about I did not remember my eco mode turning on for a couple weeks prior. Seems like a weird bug in the system and those batteries do go dead. They put in a new one and light was gone.
Wow. I updated mine at home with the GAP Tool. I just used a trickle charger to charge the car overnight to full charge before updating. It only took a few minutes but the process is scary with the weird light sequence. My car (RRS) doesn't have a 2nd battery for auto stop/start, just a main battery. No issues after update and it's been good for the past month.
Eco stop-start relies on main battery and monitoring (aux) battery charge thresholds being met.
Many inde shops do not follow what is clearly written in the workshop manual…. before commencing work attach a high current battery charger.
In your situation, one or both batteries are not sufficiently charged… or can’t be charged as they have deteriorated to a point where they cannot maintain 80% of peak (measured at 12.6v)
cheers
Wow. I updated mine at home with the GAP Tool. I just used a trickle charger to charge the car overnight to full charge before updating. It only took a few minutes but the process is scary with the weird light sequence. My car (RRS) doesn't have a 2nd battery for auto stop/start, just a main battery. No issues after update and it's been good for the past month.
Hi, @shawndh What steps did you follow with the GAP tool to install the update?
Hi, @shawndh What steps did you follow with the GAP tool to install the update?
I can’t remember exactly, but I had to load the file using my computer with a USB cable that gap sent to me. Then I flashed the file with the tool connected to the OBD port. Gap diagnostic will give you instructions. I had to request a file and pay $35 for it.
But… my main battery went about a month ago, and since the new battery the light is out. All I did was install new battery and update the BMS. Been a few hundred miles with no issue. Lucky or not, i’ll take it, it passed CA SMOG.
