Flickering headlights
My headlights flicker and there is a loud clicking noise from the region of the fuse box in the front passenger compartment, Problem was occasional but is now getting more regular. Seems to occur only after I have first driven off when the engine in cold and also when there is cold weather. Does not happen after a while on long road trips. I have had alternator replaced (genuine) in last 12 months and battery is also fairly new. No obvious problem with the fuses.
Any ideas? Thank you in advance
Any ideas? Thank you in advance
My headlights flicker and there is a loud clicking noise from the region of the fuse box in the front passenger compartment, Problem was occasional but is now getting more regular. Seems to occur only after I have first driven off when the engine in cold and also when there is cold weather. Does not happen after a while on long road trips. I have had alternator replaced (genuine) in last 12 months and battery is also fairly new. No obvious problem with the fuses.
Any ideas? Thank you in advance
Any ideas? Thank you in advance

Pinpoint test 1, confirm the state of the battery. Always.
Pinpoint test 2, confirm the thrown DTCs
… which leads to pinpoint test 3.
If you’re unable to read the DTCs, I’d start with the bulbs, catalysts, relay.
Pinpoint test 2, confirm the thrown DTCs
… which leads to pinpoint test 3.
If you’re unable to read the DTCs, I’d start with the bulbs, catalysts, relay.
Last edited by guy; Jan 11, 2025 at 07:41 AM.
I also replaced the battery when the alternator was replaced.
The audio will also cut in and out when the lights go out. I hear a clicking around the passengers foot area. Like a relay clicking. Actually the audio will cut out more frequently compared to the lights. But every time the lights would go on and off the audio would cut and come back at the exact same time as the lights. It doesn’t stay off for very long like half a second.
Only started happening after the alternator/battery replacement. It was done by my local shop. I brought the truck back to them and they cleared codes and said they had to reset some modules as they weren’t communicating. They test drove it and it didn’t flicker. When I took the truck back it started to flicker once every 5 min or so but I had my seat heater on.
Seems like it only flickers when the drivers heated seat and or steering wheel heater is on.
I’ll bring it back to them to see if they can figure why it’s happening but I thought I’d search the forums to see if anyone had a similar problem after replacing the alternator.
The audio will also cut in and out when the lights go out. I hear a clicking around the passengers foot area. Like a relay clicking. Actually the audio will cut out more frequently compared to the lights. But every time the lights would go on and off the audio would cut and come back at the exact same time as the lights. It doesn’t stay off for very long like half a second.
Only started happening after the alternator/battery replacement. It was done by my local shop. I brought the truck back to them and they cleared codes and said they had to reset some modules as they weren’t communicating. They test drove it and it didn’t flicker. When I took the truck back it started to flicker once every 5 min or so but I had my seat heater on.
Seems like it only flickers when the drivers heated seat and or steering wheel heater is on.
I’ll bring it back to them to see if they can figure why it’s happening but I thought I’d search the forums to see if anyone had a similar problem after replacing the alternator.
i mean offense….
But …
“replacing the battery” is not the same as “confirm the state of the battery”.
With the engine off and no charging device connected and no load (ignition off for at least 20 mins and doors, etc not touched). What is the voltage reading of the battery? Once this is cleared then we move to pinpoint test 2.
But …
“replacing the battery” is not the same as “confirm the state of the battery”.
With the engine off and no charging device connected and no load (ignition off for at least 20 mins and doors, etc not touched). What is the voltage reading of the battery? Once this is cleared then we move to pinpoint test 2.
Last edited by guy; Jan 11, 2025 at 10:27 AM.
I too am having this exact problem after a Alternator Replacement (Bosch) and new Battery. Radio flickers and headlamps flicker with the sound of a clicking relay that sounds like the passenger side.
I have:
1. Replaced the Battery a second time. (Interstate) No Luck
2. Replace the ECO battery. No Luck.
3. Attempted to isolate the Relay in the Passenger A-Pillar floorboard. (No Luck). The clicking SOUNDS like it is coming from inside the Fuseblock (Body Control Module) itself. The question becomes, is it a bad BCM, or is the BCM getting a bad signal/ground/power input that is causing it to turn off those systems.
Anyone have any new ideas?
Kip
2016 LR4 HSE Silver 3.0SC
I have:
1. Replaced the Battery a second time. (Interstate) No Luck
2. Replace the ECO battery. No Luck.
3. Attempted to isolate the Relay in the Passenger A-Pillar floorboard. (No Luck). The clicking SOUNDS like it is coming from inside the Fuseblock (Body Control Module) itself. The question becomes, is it a bad BCM, or is the BCM getting a bad signal/ground/power input that is causing it to turn off those systems.
Anyone have any new ideas?
Kip
2016 LR4 HSE Silver 3.0SC
Last edited by Kip Hicsk; Mar 29, 2025 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Better Information
My problem was the voltage regulator that came with the alternator. My mechanic shop found a deal on a cheaper alternator and gave it a try.
the voltage was inconsistent and always above 14v. After numerous tests they ended up swapping it for one they’ve used in the past.
since the swap to a more expensive one, I haven’t had any issues.
the voltage was inconsistent and always above 14v. After numerous tests they ended up swapping it for one they’ve used in the past.
since the swap to a more expensive one, I haven’t had any issues.
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