That response does not answer the question. I can’t offer assistance if you don’t provide accurate, empirical data.

 

In all those codes posted I don't see the PCM or Engine Control Module on the list reporting anything. Are you sure you have communication with it?

 

Battery voltage is 12.3 when connected.

also I cleared the codes and it now only has two codes but still won't crank.

 

The oil level says it's at minimum but I added oil and no change. Would that affect cranking?

 

And, a 12.3 v battery has less than 50% of CCA capacity. The battery should read 12.6v or slightly higher if AGM.
Further, the PBM fault is a common fault when capacity of the battery is insufficient.

Once a capable battery is fitted, then lets read the codes when attempting to start the engine.
(This process is precisely what is described in the workshop pinpoint tests)

The ecm should expose via a code what is inhibiting a start, if we are getting that far.

 

That's so odd because that battery is new and has literally been hooked up to that lr4 for less than an hour total.

I will charge it up and see where we're at then.

i appreciate the help with this.

 

Cool. But not odd at all. Its a misconception that a new battery is fully charged. Moreover, if it cannot be fully charged, it will not have the expected capacity and therefore should be exchanged.

Charge it by disconnecting from the vehicle. Then, it must sit, disconnected from the charger for 6 hours. Then take a reading.

 

So... I put a long ratchet and breaker bar on crank pulley and she won't BUDGE. So this is major internal right?

 

oh boy. Let’s not assume the worst just yet.
V8. high compression. and who knows how long she sat.
(without a tear down of course, we won’t accurately know, but unless you were going to do that anyways…)
Remove plugs, and get some proper penetrating oil in all the cylinders. And let it sit a few days??
Frankly, I’ve done this with ceased up tractor engines…. but never on this. (Looking forward to hearing from someone who has) And I have always needed a 4’ lead pipe on the breaker bar…

And you know the worst case scenario. Many will say “it just stopped” but there are culprits, bad oil change schedule, wrong oil, oil to low,
Or worse. Timing chains intact?
Worse still, crank shaft failure.

 

Well, the oil gauge said below minimum when it was picked up. I added 5qts to it and the next day it shows halfway to maximum. That's tells me she was bone dry. The guy I bought it from said it stopped on him mid drive. And then it started back up and died again. It never started after that. I think he ran it out of oil and lied about it.
but, grabbing the timing chain through the oil fill tube, it was loose, like I could move it 1/4"-1/2" up and down right at the pulley. this was discovered after the purchase of course.

so all signs seem to point to bad on this one. Might be looking for a replacement 5.0 now.