I have done some forum review for similar topics but feel this worthy of separate thread. Have 2011 LR4. Go to cabin at every opportunity with family - almost every other weekend. Live in Newfoundland, Canada. Have local snow fall records breaking. 38 cm fell overnight here two days ago. My wife has new MDX with new winter (and summer) tires and rims. I bought this year and have two year old winter/ ice tires.
Here is the unacceptable reality - I got stuck multiple times where my wife's MDX had no problems at all. I know it is all about the tires.

I need to have an aggressive tire for deep snow (within reason) as well as good highway and road winter driving. From what I have read wrt snow driving, Blizzak LM60 (255/50R20) looks like the best? Cabin snow clearing is periodic and I have the vehicle for the job, just need the right tires.

Need quick advice. Wasting time from snowmobile, snowshoeing and other activities.
Thx

 

Unless they've changed their design, the Blizzak tires only have the grippy rubber compound for about the top third to half of the rubber.
Nokian makes some of the best winter tires on the market.

 

Yes it is all about the tires.

Best solution is to source a set of 19" Land Rover Wheels and mount your winter rubber on these. This way you will not have the cost and hassle of swapping tires onto the 20" wheels twice a year.

I run my 20" wheels (Currently burning off a set of old Pirelli Ice and Snow) in the late spring/summer/fall.

I run my 19" wheels (03 Range Rover wheels) with Toyo G-02 Open Country Observe in the winter.


More choice in 255/55-19 (Blizzack DM-V1 (Very good in snow and ice and what I currently run on my Ridgeline, Toyo Winter and the new Pirelli Scorpion Winter)

If you are stuck using the 20" tires then the Pirelli Scorpion Winter look good.

 

Blizzaks are pretty fantastic. I had Pirelli snow and ice before and the blizzak were day and night different.

Before my LR days, my X5 had a summer 20" setup and an 18" winter setup. Two sets of wheels is the only way to go.

Don't forget, depending on where you live, you still may need chains. Here in CA, you may not have to put them on, but need to show proof that you have them to local "law enforcement".

 

Blizzaks work well in snow, the only downside is they only work well for 1/2 the tread life. After that they are just like plain knobby tires.

 

The Pirelli Ice & Snow is being phased out and the Scorpion Winter is taking its place. I agree the Ice and Snow is about 75% of the foul weather traction of the Blizzack DM-V1. The old Pirelli was a far better tire to live with on those dry pavement days.

Blizzacks still have the half/half compound going on. This is no big deal as winter tires have lost most of their effectiveness at tread depths below 6/32.

I usually run low tread depth winters in the summer to kill em off. The low tread depth takes away most of that marshmallow handling feeling.

 

Double your tire life by only runing them in the winter. Run your summer set up when the sun is out.

 

FWIW. The first 1/2 of a Blizzack tread contains their multi cell technology while the second half does not. The entire tread is a winter rubber compound so they are still superior to a regular old knobby tire in the cold and ice. As I mentioned earlier it is a moot point anyhow since winter traction falls off below 6/32 and most manufacturers recommend replacing at this point.

This brings up a pet peeve of mine when I have bought the odd set of used tires in the classifieds. Sellers will always state a % tread life. This assumes that end of life is 0/32. For all-seasons 4/32 is when most tires lose their ability in the rain and is in my mind the end of life of the tire. Not 0/32 like most sellers claim..

For example if a new tire comes with 10/32 tread when it reaches 7/32 it is at 50% effective tread depth remaining. Most sellers will call it 70%. Of course I am buying and they are selling.