Disco 5 Td6 Engine Oil DIY
#1
12-16-2018, 10:56 AM
Disco 5 Td6 Engine Oil DIY
I'm looking to see if anyone has done an oil change on their Td6 with a skid plate. I read through the Si6 thread and got some good info, but couldn't decipher what was specific to Si6 vs Td6. So a couple of questions?
1. Does anyone have pointers/tips for replacing oil/filter on Td6? I've done many oil changes in other cars but none on diesels.
2. What tools do I need? Is it as simple as remove drain plug and filter, wait for all oil to drain, then refill through cap? Or do I need a extractor tool?
3. I did a search a couple months back and didn't turn up any retailer that sold the oil. I'm assuming I need the Castrol Edge 5w30 C1?
4. I read somewhere that having the skid plate caused this to be a multi-hour job. Can someone confirm?
Thanks in advance!
1. Does anyone have pointers/tips for replacing oil/filter on Td6? I've done many oil changes in other cars but none on diesels.
2. What tools do I need? Is it as simple as remove drain plug and filter, wait for all oil to drain, then refill through cap? Or do I need a extractor tool?
3. I did a search a couple months back and didn't turn up any retailer that sold the oil. I'm assuming I need the Castrol Edge 5w30 C1?
4. I read somewhere that having the skid plate caused this to be a multi-hour job. Can someone confirm?
Thanks in advance!
#2
12-16-2018, 08:38 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Sorry I can't answer specifically for the Td6. If you pull off your oil filler cap and see a small (1/4 in. diameter ) tube underneath it will be the same tube as the Si6 and intended for sucking the oil out.
I have done many oil changes on many vehicles and never minded jacking/ pulling the skid plate off, and draining the oil from a drain plug. But for my Si6 I can't see any reason to go through this much effort when that drain tube is available for sucking the oil out. I bought a Mityvac 7201 that holds 2.3 gallons. I haven't used it on the oil yet but tried it out with water from a bucket. It is a quality tool and worth the cost. You can then pour out the used oil, or even easier, you can just pump it back out into your disposal container (that seems easier than pouring it through a funnel into a jug). I bought it online from tooldiscounter for $89 including shipping, and despite some negative reviews about tooldiscounter I gave them a try - they answered their phone, then I ordered online and got immediate email confirmation and tracking and fast shipping.
I have done many oil changes on many vehicles and never minded jacking/ pulling the skid plate off, and draining the oil from a drain plug. But for my Si6 I can't see any reason to go through this much effort when that drain tube is available for sucking the oil out. I bought a Mityvac 7201 that holds 2.3 gallons. I haven't used it on the oil yet but tried it out with water from a bucket. It is a quality tool and worth the cost. You can then pour out the used oil, or even easier, you can just pump it back out into your disposal container (that seems easier than pouring it through a funnel into a jug). I bought it online from tooldiscounter for $89 including shipping, and despite some negative reviews about tooldiscounter I gave them a try - they answered their phone, then I ordered online and got immediate email confirmation and tracking and fast shipping.
#3
12-17-2018, 05:58 PM
Oil change
I have changed mine a couple of times. The skid plate is easy to remove, very similar to the LR3 I had before.
I use Ravenol oil. J1a1571-001 which meets the diesel requirements. The oil filter is on the top of the engine in the middle. I can't remember the size of the socket, but you need to make sure it is straight as I have had trouble starting to thread it in.
I need to change mine now. Have the oil and filter in garage. With tire rotation it takes me less than an hour.
I use Ravenol oil. J1a1571-001 which meets the diesel requirements. The oil filter is on the top of the engine in the middle. I can't remember the size of the socket, but you need to make sure it is straight as I have had trouble starting to thread it in.
I need to change mine now. Have the oil and filter in garage. With tire rotation it takes me less than an hour.
I'm looking to see if anyone has done an oil change on their Td6 with a skid plate. I read through the Si6 thread and got some good info, but couldn't decipher what was specific to Si6 vs Td6. So a couple of questions?
1. Does anyone have pointers/tips for replacing oil/filter on Td6? I've done many oil changes in other cars but none on diesels.
2. What tools do I need? Is it as simple as remove drain plug and filter, wait for all oil to drain, then refill through cap? Or do I need a extractor tool?
3. I did a search a couple months back and didn't turn up any retailer that sold the oil. I'm assuming I need the Castrol Edge 5w30 C1?
4. I read somewhere that having the skid plate caused this to be a multi-hour job. Can someone confirm?
Thanks in advance!
1. Does anyone have pointers/tips for replacing oil/filter on Td6? I've done many oil changes in other cars but none on diesels.
2. What tools do I need? Is it as simple as remove drain plug and filter, wait for all oil to drain, then refill through cap? Or do I need a extractor tool?
3. I did a search a couple months back and didn't turn up any retailer that sold the oil. I'm assuming I need the Castrol Edge 5w30 C1?
4. I read somewhere that having the skid plate caused this to be a multi-hour job. Can someone confirm?
Thanks in advance!
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gmfain (01-02-2020)
#4
12-17-2018, 10:42 PM
Recovery Vehicle
Jaacina:
If you are talking about a D5: Since you said you do an oil change and tire rotation in about an hour can you please be very specific about where you jack it up, where you put the jack stands, what order you jack and place stands? (maybe you don't bother with jack stands if you are just rotating tires and not getting under it). I have sort of figured out where to jack it and place stands but would like to hear what works for you. It's way harder to jack a D5 than an LR3 as there's no frame rails. Thanks,
If you are talking about a D5: Since you said you do an oil change and tire rotation in about an hour can you please be very specific about where you jack it up, where you put the jack stands, what order you jack and place stands? (maybe you don't bother with jack stands if you are just rotating tires and not getting under it). I have sort of figured out where to jack it and place stands but would like to hear what works for you. It's way harder to jack a D5 than an LR3 as there's no frame rails. Thanks,
Last edited by ponderosajack; 12-17-2018 at 10:44 PM. Reason: clarify question
#5
12-28-2018, 08:46 PM
I have changed mine a couple of times. The skid plate is easy to remove, very similar to the LR3 I had before.
I use Ravenol oil. J1a1571-001 which meets the diesel requirements. The oil filter is on the top of the engine in the middle. I can't remember the size of the socket, but you need to make sure it is straight as I have had trouble starting to thread it in.
I need to change mine now. Have the oil and filter in garage. With tire rotation it takes me less than an hour.
I use Ravenol oil. J1a1571-001 which meets the diesel requirements. The oil filter is on the top of the engine in the middle. I can't remember the size of the socket, but you need to make sure it is straight as I have had trouble starting to thread it in.
I need to change mine now. Have the oil and filter in garage. With tire rotation it takes me less than an hour.
Sorry I can't answer specifically for the Td6. If you pull off your oil filler cap and see a small (1/4 in. diameter ) tube underneath it will be the same tube as the Si6 and intended for sucking the oil out.
I have done many oil changes on many vehicles and never minded jacking/ pulling the skid plate off, and draining the oil from a drain plug. But for my Si6 I can't see any reason to go through this much effort when that drain tube is available for sucking the oil out. I bought a Mityvac 7201 that holds 2.3 gallons. I haven't used it on the oil yet but tried it out with water from a bucket. It is a quality tool and worth the cost. You can then pour out the used oil, or even easier, you can just pump it back out into your disposal container (that seems easier than pouring it through a funnel into a jug). I bought it online from tooldiscounter for $89 including shipping, and despite some negative reviews about tooldiscounter I gave them a try - they answered their phone, then I ordered online and got immediate email confirmation and tracking and fast shipping.
I have done many oil changes on many vehicles and never minded jacking/ pulling the skid plate off, and draining the oil from a drain plug. But for my Si6 I can't see any reason to go through this much effort when that drain tube is available for sucking the oil out. I bought a Mityvac 7201 that holds 2.3 gallons. I haven't used it on the oil yet but tried it out with water from a bucket. It is a quality tool and worth the cost. You can then pour out the used oil, or even easier, you can just pump it back out into your disposal container (that seems easier than pouring it through a funnel into a jug). I bought it online from tooldiscounter for $89 including shipping, and despite some negative reviews about tooldiscounter I gave them a try - they answered their phone, then I ordered online and got immediate email confirmation and tracking and fast shipping.
Edit: I think I found the tube. It's on the outside/left side (from front of car) of the engine. Watched an oil change video for a Range Rover with the TD6 engine. Looks the same as mine.
Last edited by BchBum11511; 12-28-2018 at 10:45 PM.
#7
12-29-2018, 08:21 AM
The 5.0 was the first engine LR put out with the oil siphon tube. If you take the oil pan off you will see that the siphon tube does not go to the very bottom.
Its my opinion that this is one of the factors to early engine failures. Too much particle debris left behind from repeated siphon oil changes. For this reason I now alternate oil changes from siphon to drain plug.
Again, my opinion.
We are finishing a 2500 mile trip and the D5 will be at 7k miles, I am going to make that my oil change interval.
Its my opinion that this is one of the factors to early engine failures. Too much particle debris left behind from repeated siphon oil changes. For this reason I now alternate oil changes from siphon to drain plug.
Again, my opinion.
We are finishing a 2500 mile trip and the D5 will be at 7k miles, I am going to make that my oil change interval.
#8
12-29-2018, 02:44 PM
Rock Crawling
The 5.0 was the first engine LR put out with the oil siphon tube. If you take the oil pan off you will see that the siphon tube does not go to the very bottom.
Its my opinion that this is one of the factors to early engine failures. Too much particle debris left behind from repeated siphon oil changes. For this reason I now alternate oil changes from siphon to drain plug.
Again, my opinion.
We are finishing a 2500 mile trip and the D5 will be at 7k miles, I am going to make that my oil change interval.
Its my opinion that this is one of the factors to early engine failures. Too much particle debris left behind from repeated siphon oil changes. For this reason I now alternate oil changes from siphon to drain plug.
Again, my opinion.
We are finishing a 2500 mile trip and the D5 will be at 7k miles, I am going to make that my oil change interval.
#9
12-30-2018, 08:23 AM
I should have clarified, I have the Si6.
If you have followed the 5.0 motor they are failing at an alarming rate. Overheating(not oil related), timing component failures(oil related), and in the supercharged version crank bearings(oil related). Had these owners changed their oil at closer intervals I believe some of these issues could have been avoided.
The part that relates to this thread is that the siphon tube on the 5.0 does not go to the very bottom and I am assuming that is the case with the Td6 and Si6 although I have not taken an oil pan off of these. While synthetic oil does not break down like conventional oil, that does not mean that there are no contaminants from the engine in the oil.
Since I bought my LR3 used i have sent every oil change out for testing(blackstone) as I have been alternating between royal purple and BG Petrospecs. I started at 5k intervals and am now at 8500. Although the oil from both suppliers shows no breakdown, the longer the interval the more contaminants.
We bought the D5 to keep it. So, I am going to start oil changes at 7k, get the oil tested as I always do, and see if after a several changes any levels rise.
I believe this is cheap insurance on an expensive vehicle.
If you have followed the 5.0 motor they are failing at an alarming rate. Overheating(not oil related), timing component failures(oil related), and in the supercharged version crank bearings(oil related). Had these owners changed their oil at closer intervals I believe some of these issues could have been avoided.
The part that relates to this thread is that the siphon tube on the 5.0 does not go to the very bottom and I am assuming that is the case with the Td6 and Si6 although I have not taken an oil pan off of these. While synthetic oil does not break down like conventional oil, that does not mean that there are no contaminants from the engine in the oil.
Since I bought my LR3 used i have sent every oil change out for testing(blackstone) as I have been alternating between royal purple and BG Petrospecs. I started at 5k intervals and am now at 8500. Although the oil from both suppliers shows no breakdown, the longer the interval the more contaminants.
We bought the D5 to keep it. So, I am going to start oil changes at 7k, get the oil tested as I always do, and see if after a several changes any levels rise.
I believe this is cheap insurance on an expensive vehicle.
Last edited by abran; 12-30-2018 at 08:33 AM.