As you mentioned, it is a guess with respect to the siphon tube and no doubt that your engineering expertise far exceeds that of the JLR engineering teams who designed these vehicles. Td6 Oil filter part number is LR013148 and I purchased them at GenuineLandRoverParts.com for $11.34 each. They also have the Td6 drain pan plugs, part number 1013938 for $6.03 for those of you insistent on dropping the skid plate and draining the oil through the oil pan. As in most applications, if removed, this should be replaced with each oil change too, but many owners neglect this. Best of luck and if doing your own work, build a service book that documents all of the maintenance you have logged on your vehicle.

 

 

Indeed the siphon tube on the 5.0 motors may not reach as deeply as the drain plug and perhaps the engines were designed by the same teams, but unlikely given the age (as early as 1990 origin of the 5.0) and the relatively new (2010s) design of the Td6. Perhaps the new diesel team may have had inputs into the aging 5.0 design with an added on siphon tube? Suggest once a Td6 is torn down that your assumptions are verified regarding the siphon tube - this would be valuable information to know and perhaps a magnetic drain plug may be helpful in removing contaminants. Anecdotally my technician noted that the engines have run better with slightly less oil and this is what he was passing along to me which amounts to supplying 95% of the maximum oil capacity. Likewise, I have taken apart several engines or various manufacturers in the past and dropping the oil pan plug does not remove all of the oil in the engine. Perhaps when all the passages are completely cleaned out, 6.3L will bring it to maximum capacity, but is maximum capacity the optimal capacity? My technician is a long time LR employee and has been working on the Td6 since introduction which amounts to more experience than I have with the brand and this particular engine. It is also interesting to note that on older LR models, the same service department drains through the oil pan, but not on the Td6. Since you seem to have a gas model, this should be irrelevant to you. Hopefully the information I provided earlier will help save you some money on filters and drain plugs. Best of luck servicing your vehicle.

 

The 5.0 was first introduced in NA on the 2010 models. Not sure of its first introduction to the worldwide market.

Thank you for the information.

 

The design of the oil/filter systems on these engines are focussed to reduce the time it takes to perform an oil change. Typically you will never get all the old oil out, even with using the drain plug. However a siphon tube will never get as much oil out as the drain plug, and the unfortunate part is that it is typically that last few lower mm of oil in the pan that contains the most gunk. It may be prudent to do an actual drain every 3 or 4th oil change to just get as much out as possible.

Modern synthetic oils have more detergents and also don't break down as much, which tends to leave a lot less gunk and varnish in the engine itself, so probably not as much of a deal to drain with every oil change.

I don't know the root cause of main bearings to fail, but lack of oil pressure and hard loads are the typical culprits. So I wonder if the oil pickup gets less effective over time due to deposits in the oil pan, if that is the cause of the failures. I'm sure the JLR engines have good sump baffles in place to manage offroad angels and cornering g forces. Where there any deposits on the pickup or gunk in the baffles of the sump of the engines that failed?

 

Do you have any data on JLR Td6 engine failures? How many failed, mileage, circumstances (use), etc. If so, that would be very beneficial to an owners group and could help direct great vehicle longevity. I've seen other discussion of oil dilution issue, but no data or facts, only supposition.

 

Thanks for that info. LR011279 is the gas engine filter and runs $28 on that website.

Here's a way to know for sure how much oil is not getting drained by sucking it through the top: When I do mine (not due yet): I will suck out all the oil via the suction tube. Then I'll drop the skid plate and pull the drain plug and see what else comes out. If someone else gets to do this first please let us know (both TD6 and SI6). (I see this discussion has been split into TD6 and SI6).

 

 

I like the methodology to determine what is left in the pan after suctioning through the siphon tube. I will also give that a try at my next oil change (another 4000 miles). From what I have seen at the dealership, the lack of owner understanding and knowledge about the vehicles is a major contributor to problems. Sadly, the first owners on many of these vehicles never use them for more that what could be accomplished with a much less capable vehicle. They are buying status, not capability as the vehicles never go off road or get tested. To them the car is an appliance and ownership (maintenance) is an irritant that they will ignore until it is too late. Further, when they do change the oil, how many are running by the Iffy Lube where they are throwing whatever oil is on the shelf back in the engine? My technician suggested this was the cause of the engine issues he had noted and he was adamant about using the Castrol spec oil for the engine based on his experience with engine failures.