Fingers crossed for you!

 

Glad you are getting it back. Fingers crossed as well that it is finally solved. Reminds me of the crap my brother had way back with his VW, replaced a fusebox and it was fine for quite a few years.

My wife loves the D5 and would be pissed if she was without it. Hope it runs well now, but I think you need more seat time 😂 I broke ours in and barely gets behind the wheel apart from offroad and camping 😂

 

Well, it's A L I V E! Of course, we have been here twice before so let's hope it stays that way this time. I wish I could demand actual failure analysis on this junction box so I could have some confidence on what was actually wrong but that is likely asking too much. Sad thing is, with a problem that leaves you DOA, we cannot get too far from home until confidence returns.

Totally why we bought a $76K vehicle . . . To NOT drive it very far!

 

OK, when I took this in last fall just for a first service before a trip we were going on, I commented that this vehicle has THE wimpiest dome light system I've ever seen. The rear lights only came on when you open the rear hatch. The front console light only came on with the map switch. The center lights would come on but quite dimly. They "no fault found" that as "normal".

So, we get the Disco back and BRIGHT LIGHTS BIG CITY. Console, center, and rear all come on in addition to the side lights. Hey, looks like "the junction box" had more than just the downward spiral to DOA problem. It may be just because it has been so long but I swear the Meridian even sounds better.

About 250 miles in and it still works . . .

 

That’s good to hear. The interior led lights in our D5 has always been pretty bright, actually need to see if it can be dimmed a bit.

Hope that is the end of your hassles.

 

P2002 is back

This is the DPF filter efficiency below some magical threshold code.

I tried the HotShot additive per earlier suggestion, reset the code, filled the tank, and . . . it came back again.

I guess it is going back to the dealer.

 

It's a brick again. At least it happened at home this time, not out in traffic somewhere. Worked almost a month after they swapped the rear junction box. Barring a short or high resistance short, I did not really understand how that would fix anything but I did not design the thing.

OK, so I have a constantly varying 2.6-4.9V between + and - under the hood. That cannot be good and I'm frankly a bit reserved about even putting a trickle charger on it. And I cannot figure out how to get the rear hatch open.

Looks like we are going to have to drag it out backwards far enough to get it up on a truck.

 

You didn't disconnect that connector in the back that disables auto stop/start did you? It can affect voltage stabilization though nobody that's done it so far has reported any problems.

 

This solved it for me:
1. No more additives
2. Use premium diesel, I'm using Exxon's premium diesel.

It worked for me,

thanks

 

Nope, have not touched or modified a thing. I was ready to buy the Bluespark Tuner box at the one year anniversary when the problems started but did not. Certainly will not even touch it now until it is Fixed-Fixed.

We had to put a Porta-Batt between + and - under the hood to get the thing in neutral. But then it actually started so scrapped the "get it in neutral procedure" and we just drove it on the truck. Without the Porta-Batt it went right back to 2.6-4.9V oscillation between + and - under the hood. Not sure I've ever seen a battery oscillate. Is there a relay between the 2? Hey, if I knew we were keeping it, I'd invest in some real manuals.