I have 1997 LR1 SD that I have cared for very well, brakes, shocks, belts springs and all those fun electrical problems.

I went out to the woods and used the truck to pull out about 5000 pounds of wood with the transfer case locked in Low, the light on the dash came on saying I was locked..... That was fine until I moved the transfer case **** back into "unlocked" and in High where it belongs for normal use.

That being said, the light is still on indicating that the case is still in locked mode. The lever for the case moves freely and I can feel that it engages in both locked and unlocked mode.

My question is: Should I be concerned that it might stuck in Locked mode? or could it be a sticky swith for the light on the dash?

I am changing out the Transfer case oil now eith a mix of 90W Synthetic and 90W Lucas oil....

Thanks Scott

 

Hi Folks,

I have a 1997 Disco SD with a GEMS motor with 158,xxx miles on it. Same ol' comments, I am getting the tapping in the morning when cold then it goes away when warm or if the RPM's are increased. But the tapping comes back indicitave of bad oil pressure. Performance obviously is crap and feels like the lifters or something has collapsed in the valve train. Truck has a new fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail clean, battery, alternator, computer, plugs, wires, coil banks, air filter, MAF etc, etc.

I am getting ready to tear it down and had a couple/few+ questions.

1. Pretty sure the piston sleeves are not slipping How do you test? (Visual?) Carbon pattern should be uniform at the TDC for each piston.

2. If the oil sump pickup is loose, which may cause bad oil pressure, Is there a better one to buy other than stock? along with fasteners etc.

3. Camshaft, If worn, where can I get a good perfomance Cam with better lift and duration?

4. Lifters, I can get a set set of replacements from my local junk auto parts store but wondered if anyone has tried a roller setup in these motors?

5. Rockers, do they fall out of tollerance normally from 150K wear? get sloppy etc.

6. Engine sludge in passageways, does it make sense to do some kind of seafoam exercise before tearing it down? I am planning on dropping the pan and will have it cleaned sandblasted and painted before install.

7. Headbolts and gasket kits, ARP? or what is the best "Quality" set of replacements for not only the "foo foo" gaskets but the best metallic head gaskets.

8. And last, Heads? who does the best job for a rebuild? I have a local guy that says he knows what is what... but I am looking for someone that has been around the block and has done a three angle valve job with quality stems and valves if needed, in addition to seals and all the other goodies.

I am planning on keeping my rig long term and was curious, if given the money based on my situation would be ideal, in your opinions. I have built many GM motors and wondered what was/is compatible. It seems to me that the rover power plant is based off the buick 231 only made lighter in aluminum form and wondered what fits?

Sorry for the book report but I am planning on dropping a fair amount of time and money into this thing and want to get it right!

Scott
503.737.7120
ssmith971
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 2


Lifter Noise 1997 Discovery GEMS motor
Hi Folks,

I have a 1997 Disco SD with a GEMS motor with 158,xxx miles on it. Same ol' comments, I am getting the tapping in the morning when cold then it goes away when warm or if the RPM's are increased. But the tapping comes back indicitave of bad oil pressure. Performance obviously is crap and feels like the lifters or something has collapsed in the valve train. Truck has a new fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail clean, battery, alternator, computer, plugs, wires, coil banks, air filter, MAF etc, etc.

I am getting ready to tear it down and had a couple/few+ questions.

1. Pretty sure the piston sleeves are not slipping How do you test? (Visual?) Carbon pattern should be uniform at the TDC for each piston.

2. If the oil sump pickup is loose, which may cause bad oil pressure, Is there a better one to buy other than stock? along with fasteners etc.

3. Camshaft, If worn, where can I get a good perfomance Cam with better lift and duration?

4. Lifters, I can get a set set of replacements from my local junk auto parts store but wondered if anyone has tried a roller setup in these motors?

5. Rockers, do they fall out of tollerance normally from 150K wear? get sloppy etc.

6. Engine sludge in passageways, does it make sense to do some kind of seafoam exercise before tearing it down? I am planning on dropping the pan and will have it cleaned sandblasted and painted before install.

7. Headbolts and gasket kits, ARP? or what is the best "Quality" set of replacements for not only the "foo foo" gaskets but the best metallic head gaskets.

8. And last, Heads? who does the best job for a rebuild? I have a local guy that says he knows what is what... but I am looking for someone that has been around the block and has done a three angle valve job with quality stems and valves if needed, in addition to seals and all the other goodies.

I am planning on keeping my rig long term and was curious, if given the money based on my situation would be ideal, in your opinions. I have built many GM motors and wondered what was/is compatible. It seems to me that the rover power plant is based off the buick 231 only made lighter in aluminum form and wondered what fits?

Sorry for the book report but I am planning on dropping a fair amount of time and money into this thing and want to get it right!

Scott
503.737.7120

 

Before you start taking it apart, how about a mechanical oil PSI test?

Oil pickup has an o-ring on the tube, and a couple of dabs of loctite on the bolts would be a good step.