Hi all-never knew a thing about Land Rovers...just liked their uniqueness. Now I'm finding out everything. Just bought a Disco with 123,000 on it from an owner for $4,000. Runs nice. Broken engine mounts. Had radiator replaced and MAF replaced to reset SES and it passed emissions. Slight transfer case leak and a small oil pan leak. Does anyone know what's a good oil for the desert? 40 degrees at night and 110 in the day. And why would my oil pressure light remain on briefly upon start-up sometimes? Sometimes it goes out right away. Either way, it never comes on again once it goes out. Plenty of oil in it. Just had the engine oil flushed and changed to a 10w-40 Mobil 1. Does that sound right? I've heard about five different oil recommendations. It's a 4.0 Series II.

 

Best all around oil is Shell Rotella as it has lots of additives (ZDDP) that flat tappet engines like, plus it cleans sludge very well. They do make a syn style oil (5W40). But Mobile 1 is also good oil. Need jumbo filter for extra capacity.


Oil light goes out around 7 PSI. At this point you don't know what oil pressure is (10, 20 , 32.9, etc.). A mechanical gauge test is a good idea, oil pumps can be cracked. Should be above 50 PSI at 2500 rpm warmed up.


The front drive shaft, if still oem, will dry out and split, then flail about and bust hole in side of tranny. Upgrade or rebuild to fully greaseable (in our tech area).


Change thermostat to Land Rover (not motobad) 180F, from on line dealers, dealership won't have it.


Download the RAVE shop manual at links below. Welcome to the addiction. Support group meets here continuously 24/7 worldwide.

 

Thanks Buzz! One month in and 3,100.00 in repairs almost immediately. $600.00 for MAF and radiator hoses to get SES off...1200.00 for new engine blocks, rebuilt brake master, and engine oil flush. So it started nicely yesterday morning and drove beautifully 15 miles. I stopped, went into the casino and lost 90 dollars so I was already mad when I started my new Disco and the oil light wouldn't go off. Called my mechanic and said to have it towed to his place and I did, but when the tow truck driver started it to back it out of the parking space....LOUD ticking. Oil pump went. He is charging 1300.00 with new timing belt shield and oil pan with gaskets. How does this sound? What have I done.

 

if your oil pump failed; why is he selling you a new timing case cover, the oil pump gears in YOUR cover can be replaced for $120.00 in parts. (why is he selling you a $700.00 new timing cover) and why in god's name would you need an oil pan?
as i stated the gears are about $120.00 and an 4-6 hours labor.
jmho

 

I believe the guy is trying to bait and switch me. "Yeah it's $1300.00 but I'm giving you a new oil pan (it was drenched in oil and leaking) with new gaskets and a timing case cover." I mean what the hell. I found an oil pump at cheapest for $370...and most expensive for 650.00 right? How do I get a 1300.00 bill. I totally smell a rat.