Land Rover Guru
#1
05-10-2013, 08:06 AM
Land Rover Guru
Hi I'm Donna…I'm not only new to this but obviously I'm a FEMALE. Blonde & somewhat prissy & some of you might laugh!! But that's ok, it happens. I grew up hanging with my daddy mostly & spent lots of time watching him work on my MGB. He taught me the basics as far as changing the oil, headlights etc. I AM HELL BENT & DETERMINED THAT MY 1996 Land Rover will not beat me!!! I am becoming a Land Rover Guru!!!
#2
05-10-2013, 09:07 AM
Baja
no laughing here. welcome to the madness. Did you happen to find the RAVE manual yet? it's our bible.
http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...hop_Manual.pdf
http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...hop_Manual.pdf
#3
05-10-2013, 09:30 AM
Super Moderator
Welcome. The RAVE and other manuals will serve you well. Working on many things on a Rover you will find small hands an advantage. Everything on the bottom side of a Rover requires grease and fluid changes. So male previous owners skip lots of it. Many Rovers change hands without the differential fluid ever being changed, etc.
A very common problem with D1 and D2 is overheating. I would point out that the factory temp gauge is an estimate. To see the real temp you'll need a scanner or Ultra Guage (great gadget that reads codes, resets engine codes, shows existing data values you select on a screen, $70). Note in pix that 235 temp is just above mid-point, mine normally runs about 8:00 position at 183-187 F. I run a 180 thermostat in mine, but I don't live in the frozen waste lands.
If you add your location to your signature there may be Rover clubs in your area. A trip to the u-pull-parts junk yad is always an education as you see how thing are put togther.
A very common problem with D1 and D2 is overheating. I would point out that the factory temp gauge is an estimate. To see the real temp you'll need a scanner or Ultra Guage (great gadget that reads codes, resets engine codes, shows existing data values you select on a screen, $70). Note in pix that 235 temp is just above mid-point, mine normally runs about 8:00 position at 183-187 F. I run a 180 thermostat in mine, but I don't live in the frozen waste lands.
If you add your location to your signature there may be Rover clubs in your area. A trip to the u-pull-parts junk yad is always an education as you see how thing are put togther.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 05-10-2013 at 09:32 AM.
#4
05-10-2013, 09:52 AM
Yes I have found the rave lol !! Been religiously reading about the power steering (leaks), the prob I'm having with it loosing power & bogging down during the hot months only (possible fuel temp sensor?) & doesn't always want to start in park, if it doesn't I put it in neutral & it starts on the 3rd try every time (possible cranking sensor?). Help with any suggestions please, if you don't think I'm headed on the right path. Fuel filter & pump has been replaced.
#5
05-10-2013, 10:21 AM
Super Moderator
Fuel temp sensor works to add some extra time to the fuel injector control pulses, so more fuel and any bubbles formed in hot weather will pass thru the system. Probably not the issue.
For bogging down you'ld want to be sure throttle body butterfly is clean, and IACV is clean, and bore it fits into and the PCV hose port into throttle body is clean. Use spray carb cleaner. Don't tinker with then end of the IACV, just spray off the gunk.
The MAF sensor can be cleaned, only when stone cold, parked over night, ignition not switched on. In other words, don't turn on key to listen to radio, check lights, or crank up and move out of garage. Turning key to position 2 applies volts to the MAF, which warms up a spot inside to 350F. Hit that with cold spray and it could fracture a tiny part. Use a spray made for cleaning MAFs. Expect change in starting and idle first few times as ECU adapts.
The ECU controls the fuel/air mix, based on sensor inputs. The MAF tells it how much air is coming in. That can be fooled by dirty MAF, or un-metered air leaks after the MAF. Cracks in rubber hose, vac hoses, PCV system can change the metered value to something else. The ECU also depends on signals from the TPS (throtle position sensor) to tell it how far open the throttle valve is. On a scanner this will show up as about 9% at idle, and should increase smoothly. Linkage should be lubed. The ECU depends on the CMP (cam position sensor) to tell it where the valves are so it can adjust the fuel squirted thru injectors. Will run with it unplugged at a default value. The ECU depends on the crank shaft position sensor (CKP) to determine the extact spot the crankshaft is passing, so sparks can be fired. Engine won't run with a dead one, no sparks. But one covered with metal fuzz or a bent tip will cause problems. These units are known to fail when engine block temp is hotter, typical complaint is won't crank after parking for a short period, until cooled off.
So those sensors don't sound like your problem. There is a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) that when it fails starts to turn off spark and fuel to cyclinders to act as a governor and prevent operation above 115 MPH. When it fails, this happens at normal highway speeds. Trcuk will run without it not plugged in (back of transfer case), speedometer will be dead and crusie won't work.
The closest thing to your description is fuel pressure. Normal pressue would be observed with a gauge attched to the "tire valve" on the passenger side fuel rail. Expect 32-34 PSI when key is turned to position 2, the pumps runs for a few seconds, and the ECU cuts it off if engine not running. Having to prime up the system (multiple crank attempts) would indicate fuel system not holding presure. You can repeat this by just swucing on ignition for 4 seconds, then off, repeat several times, and then try to crank. If it fires right up, low pressure.
The fuel rail on the driver side is home to the fuel pressure regulator (at rear of the rail). It has a six inch vacuum line that may be cracked or rotten. Low fuel pressure running will certainly bog down.
So I would not throw parts at it just yet, but would "test" some of the components. You will find that parts stores loan or rent tools and test devices (usually pay a deposit and get a refund - if you have the space on credit card, etc.). Harbor Freight is a source of cheap tools as well.
For bogging down you'ld want to be sure throttle body butterfly is clean, and IACV is clean, and bore it fits into and the PCV hose port into throttle body is clean. Use spray carb cleaner. Don't tinker with then end of the IACV, just spray off the gunk.
The MAF sensor can be cleaned, only when stone cold, parked over night, ignition not switched on. In other words, don't turn on key to listen to radio, check lights, or crank up and move out of garage. Turning key to position 2 applies volts to the MAF, which warms up a spot inside to 350F. Hit that with cold spray and it could fracture a tiny part. Use a spray made for cleaning MAFs. Expect change in starting and idle first few times as ECU adapts.
The ECU controls the fuel/air mix, based on sensor inputs. The MAF tells it how much air is coming in. That can be fooled by dirty MAF, or un-metered air leaks after the MAF. Cracks in rubber hose, vac hoses, PCV system can change the metered value to something else. The ECU also depends on signals from the TPS (throtle position sensor) to tell it how far open the throttle valve is. On a scanner this will show up as about 9% at idle, and should increase smoothly. Linkage should be lubed. The ECU depends on the CMP (cam position sensor) to tell it where the valves are so it can adjust the fuel squirted thru injectors. Will run with it unplugged at a default value. The ECU depends on the crank shaft position sensor (CKP) to determine the extact spot the crankshaft is passing, so sparks can be fired. Engine won't run with a dead one, no sparks. But one covered with metal fuzz or a bent tip will cause problems. These units are known to fail when engine block temp is hotter, typical complaint is won't crank after parking for a short period, until cooled off.
So those sensors don't sound like your problem. There is a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) that when it fails starts to turn off spark and fuel to cyclinders to act as a governor and prevent operation above 115 MPH. When it fails, this happens at normal highway speeds. Trcuk will run without it not plugged in (back of transfer case), speedometer will be dead and crusie won't work.
The closest thing to your description is fuel pressure. Normal pressue would be observed with a gauge attched to the "tire valve" on the passenger side fuel rail. Expect 32-34 PSI when key is turned to position 2, the pumps runs for a few seconds, and the ECU cuts it off if engine not running. Having to prime up the system (multiple crank attempts) would indicate fuel system not holding presure. You can repeat this by just swucing on ignition for 4 seconds, then off, repeat several times, and then try to crank. If it fires right up, low pressure.
The fuel rail on the driver side is home to the fuel pressure regulator (at rear of the rail). It has a six inch vacuum line that may be cracked or rotten. Low fuel pressure running will certainly bog down.
So I would not throw parts at it just yet, but would "test" some of the components. You will find that parts stores loan or rent tools and test devices (usually pay a deposit and get a refund - if you have the space on credit card, etc.). Harbor Freight is a source of cheap tools as well.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 05-10-2013 at 10:23 AM.
#6
05-11-2013, 02:04 AM
Administrator
#7
05-12-2013, 07:16 AM
Baja
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