New D1 owner
#1
#2
Welcome. In our tech area you will find list of things to do to catch up maintenace. Many times the radiator has developed calcium clogs, they are brass and copper,can be removed, side tank unsoldered, and unit rodded out.
The shop and owner manuals are called the RAVE, free download below.
The shop and owner manuals are called the RAVE, free download below.
#3
Thanks, I have downloaded rave and read a lot... I'm going to have to change fuel lines, brake lines and a few cosmetic parts and I hope to get it going.. Fluid changes soon right after the fuel pump... LOL.
Welcome.
In our tech area you will find list of things to do to catch up maintenace. Many times the radiator has developed calcium clogs, they are brass and copper,can be removed, side tank unsoldered, and unit rodded out.
The shop and owner manuals are called the RAVE, free download below.
In our tech area you will find list of things to do to catch up maintenace. Many times the radiator has developed calcium clogs, they are brass and copper,can be removed, side tank unsoldered, and unit rodded out.
The shop and owner manuals are called the RAVE, free download below.
#4
#5
Has it been cranked since it sat for several years?
If not cranked yet, consider new plugs, and squirt a little oil into each one (rings). New plug wires. 8mm silicone.
You can disconnect fuel fittings at rear of the fuel rail, and jumper pump to run, forcing what yuk is in there to be pumped out. Like 12 feet of yuk. Change fuel filter. Fresh premium fuel.
Oil and filter change. Shell Rotella 15W40, WIX 51515 filter. New standard paper air filter.
The filter system for air into the hood area and down to heater fan will need to be replaced, the coarse plastic "cut your own" filters from hardware store are fine.
New battery. Clean up terminals, plus the black wire to the frame down by bottom of radiator.
Transfer case and both differentials - 85W140 oil. Garden sprayer to pump it in.
Front swivel joints (CVs) use oil or grease depending on your choice.
flush radiator (it can be rodded out by a shop, it is copper/brass. Reverse flush heater core. Refill with 50/50 green premix coolant.
Brake flush with 2 quarts DOT 4 fluid.
Replace all vac lines. Especially short one from fuel regulator to intake.
Remove and clean IACV with carb cleaner.
Remove and clean MAF with made for MAF sensor spray (only when engine cold).
If not cranked yet, consider new plugs, and squirt a little oil into each one (rings). New plug wires. 8mm silicone.
You can disconnect fuel fittings at rear of the fuel rail, and jumper pump to run, forcing what yuk is in there to be pumped out. Like 12 feet of yuk. Change fuel filter. Fresh premium fuel.
Oil and filter change. Shell Rotella 15W40, WIX 51515 filter. New standard paper air filter.
The filter system for air into the hood area and down to heater fan will need to be replaced, the coarse plastic "cut your own" filters from hardware store are fine.
New battery. Clean up terminals, plus the black wire to the frame down by bottom of radiator.
Transfer case and both differentials - 85W140 oil. Garden sprayer to pump it in.
Front swivel joints (CVs) use oil or grease depending on your choice.
flush radiator (it can be rodded out by a shop, it is copper/brass. Reverse flush heater core. Refill with 50/50 green premix coolant.
Brake flush with 2 quarts DOT 4 fluid.
Replace all vac lines. Especially short one from fuel regulator to intake.
Remove and clean IACV with carb cleaner.
Remove and clean MAF with made for MAF sensor spray (only when engine cold).
#6
#7
For the price you can't beat it. I mentioned the radiator because chemical process of growing deposits takes place 24/7, just faster when heated. Any metal surface exposed to air on inside (engine via PCV, differentials and transmission via breather tubes) will have condensation added to the fluid.
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