I recently purchased a dark blue 2003 SE7 with 138k miles and perfect tan interior. $1,500 Denver, CO. VIN # falls into the oil pump recall period. Unknown disposition. Starts just fine but then loses rpms and stalls*. When given fuel to RPMs over 1,500 it starts to knock, sounds like a rod bearing to me. Another "rover" mechanic said it was the cam bearings?. The heads are rebuilt, intake and gaskets replaced recently. other new parts here and there.
I plan to remove and rebuild engine, oversize bore and hone, main ground and polished and ballanced, maybe shoot-peen block, rods and crank, have liners "pined", ARP Main and head studs. replace all accessible transmission / transfer case gaskets, seals, etc. Greasable u joints, if needed.
So I am looking for:
1. A machine shop in Denver near the Lakewood area maybe. but quality and experience are worth the drive.
2. A good camshaft, something better then stock if possible, a cam with better millage and etc.. anybody here think roller lifters are too expensive? I hear Crower makes cams for Rovers.
3. Replacement parts & manufactures to AVOID!
* in picture someone taped off the IACV idle air, is this some kind of British trick? Still has a loud knocking noise.
Open to suggestions and comments. will be and have been searching forums for these answers.
I plan on having this truck running by Thanksgiving!
Thanks

 

the crower **229 is the most popular for our v8
you can order directly from them

 

You won't be able to do roller lifters on this engine without some serious effort and cash and you won't ever get your investment back in performance gains. The Crower cam is probably your best choice although it won't make this thing a tire smoker. A decent port and polish will likely net more of a gain.

The IAC setup is what a hack does when the nipple snaps off. Find yourself a new intake tube or get creative with your plastic welder. By the way, that's why it is stalling after it starts. Regarding the knock, check to make sure you have oil pressure but if it sounds that nasty you will need to tear into it anyway. You can check the main and rod bearings by pulling the sump to see if that's where the problem is.

 

Thanks for the reply, I have found some direct fit roller lifters and rocker arms but for the $$$ for a wee bit less friction and a radical cam? not this time. Crower cam and lifters it is. Also oil pressure gauge, electric sender. Not sure what the oil pressure is but enough to keep the idiot light off, unless it's broke. So I will need to install a tee somewhere?
Still leaning to ARP mains and head studs.
Any thoughts on bearings, all of them, and head gaskets?
If all cylinder liners are in order then a simple "pin" through the liner into the block should be a permanent fix, it shouldn't slip!

 

sandwich adapter from glowshift is my gauge port. cheap and simple
and it shouldn't but it shouldn't in the first place....