Macgyvered a fix for the broken steering wheel tilt lock. Removed springs from the top of the column and used some wire through and around the spring mount holes to hold the top front of the wheel up, 90% fix, added back the springs so that the wire has less force on it. then added a shim underneath between the bottom of the column and the metal bracket under it. As I said 90% as it stays within a half inch of the full up position, just not entirely solidly locked there. Better than flopping in your lap though.

The list is getting longer so I gotta get caught up... one inside door handle not working, one window wants to keep rolling up rather than stopping, drivers seat control unit... the little stuff... Got a new track rod and drag link coming in the mail and I will do that along with new front rotors, pads, and an axle seal on one side to fixed warped rotors and and uneven wear situation on outside of the front passenger tire. Alignment shop said they couldn't adjust anything till the tie rod ends were fixed.

Lots of little issues but she runs like a top!

98 4.6 HSE 50th anniversary edition with no special badge.

 

Got the front rotors and pads changed today. Not a bad job. Had to drill out the phillips head screw on both sides. One was more stubborn than the other. looked to be original to the 155k truck... I did not replace the screw. Cleaned and serviced the calipers pins... Two of them really needed it. Much smoother now. Noticed the outside of the O rings around the pad side of the pistons on one caliper were worn/damaged. Nothing appeared to be leaking out but will start googling that... The caliper carriers rubbed on the outer edge of the rotor so some grinding down fixed that. Removed and cleaned dust guards. Went with Akebono pads and Brembo rotors which I had originally bought for the front of the D2 but used on the P38 to solve the vibration issue...

The good news is this fixed the pulsating brake issue, must have been warped rotors.

Could not get the hub out (not removing the nut method) so did not replace the leaking axle seal. Cleaned everything up in that area in preparation for new track rod and drag link. Bad joint on one side of the track rod.

Will go to local hardware store and acquire big chisel drift to facilitate removing hub/axle combo to change leaking seal as well as correct size phillips head for rotor screw.

Instructed kid to not ride brakes down hills and sent him bedding in rotors directions.

beer thirty, happy 4th.

 

Did my research and found that the rotor screw is a PZ4 Pozidrive bit... Will be getting one of those and a manual impact driver for future.

Addressed broken steering wheel tilt mechanism again... Previous attempt using wire where the springs are didn't hold up. Knocking on burl wood trim still but I think I may have got it this time... Found a stick of 6/32 threaded stainless steel rod at the hardware store as well as 8 nuts and washers. It was the smallest size threaded rod they had. Also got the smallest size corner brace and flattened it out... It was 1 & 1/2 x 5/8"... 3" long when flat with four holes in it. I removed the springs from the tilting yoke and put threaded rod through the back hole and used the flat corner brace over the front ends of the threaded rod, up against the front of the yolk, where the spring would attach. It fit nice and snug there. Then holding the steering wheel at full height, tighten nuts down. Locked in highest position but it doesn't budge. Under $4.00 at hardware store and doesn't look too jank if you ever did see it. The only tricky part is that you must replace all of the plastic parts including the binnacle with the wheel at the full highest point. Tricky but in the right sequence just barely possible.

 

Someone smashed in the drivers door glass only to steal a few coins while parked in a hotel parking lot in Chiliwack BC recently. I post this now as a heads up on how nearly unobtanium glass is for these... None of the Seattle area glass shops can get the aftermarket glass any longer. I did find one attached to a truck going to salvage at the local indy LR shop... Who is so busy it will take over a week to get in to have the glass installed. Luckily it isn't raining right now.

 

Too bad you weren’t closer, I have a parts truck behind my buddies barn, probably wouldn’t take more than a couple hours to swap it out. Here in southern Ontario they’re few and far between, I keep robbing parts all the time. Lol

 

Well I finally replaced the Hvac control in my Range with one from my parts truck. Happily to see a working LCD display now but the test book symbol has appeared and can’t seem to get any air to blow through any ducting. I can hear the fan working fine. Speed control is fine. It’s time to get an actual rover specific code reader I think. I just need one that’ll also do my d2

 

Well I picked up some new rubber for the p38, I got a deal on some 235/85r16 at3 all terrains- used for 6000km. Like new
anyone tried this size on a stock rig?

 

I casually follow you P38 guys bc I would love to have one as a daily driver. ..Kinda jealous cuz I don't have the space or budget for 2 more trucks; 1 of course for parts -I've learned the value of having a parts truck for keeping my old D2 on the road. It's paid for itself several times over and keeps on doing so. I must be crazy for wanting another Rover but you guys get it

 

I get it, I have to admit part of me wants a P38. Even though the last one I owned was only for a week lol. Something about them calls to me.

 

I really enjoy driving the p38, it’s a much nicer ride and more room than the d2. It does have its quirks tho lol. I thinks it’s bad reputation is overblown tho. I honestly am not afraid to drive it anywhere anytime. I just won’t lock it in fear of it staying locked Lol