I have a parasitic draw in our 2006 RR Sport HSE. I understand that I need the vehicle to go fully to sleep to attempt to locate the parasite.

I can latch the doors easily enough, but the hood latch just wants to spring back, I believe it relies on the weight of the hood portion of the latches to keep it engaged, rather than having it's own locking mechanism.

Can anybody assist me in understanding how to 'trick' the hood into appearing latched to the system?

Are there any other 'sleep' oddities that I should know about?

Thank you in advance for any assistance!

 

Well, I was checking fuses today with the multimeter, and honestly I don't know how anyone does that in the passenger side fuse box. I'm 6'3" and 190 lbs, I can barely get my body in position in there, let alone hold the two leads close enough together (and still enough) to get a reading on each fuse in that tiny space!

However, before I got there, in the engine compartment fusebox, fuse #26, the Air Suspension ECU, was pulling 400 milliamps. We have seen odd suspension fault messages from time to time, but the 400 milliamp draw has been consistent since I found it.

What are the various temporary/workaround solutions to this problem? We never change the suspension height, or should I say rarely. I've read somewhere about someone installing a kill switch in series? I'm open to suggestions, other than 'take it to the shop'. The only one I really trusted in town (with the RR) just retired and closed their doors. When the gear shifter lever was ceasing/slipping out of drive, everyone wanted to charge us for a new transmission. Finally after PB blaster-ing it a few times we ordered the parts from british atlantic, and wala, car shifts like a dream. $40 in parts and a couple hours of swearing > spending 3k+ on things you don't need!!!