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Had a feeling, was hoping for an exhaust manifold but no, sadly enough at the very least timing chain tensioner gave way, 5,0L Jag engine shouldn't sound that way lol. Keeping fingers crossed the warranty co does what I paid it to do. Knock on wood, only things left to crater is the tranny, o2 sensors or air sus.
welp fck, new engine is needed, metal shavings in the oil, warranty company is not a joy, won’t say exactly what they’ll cover, got the diag of metal but still want it torn down to verify, that’s on me, all in all looking at 5k or more, certified reman engine 15k out of Cali.
Last edited by adigerol77; Nov 15, 2021 at 07:12 PM.
Update, TC tensioners not too bad but the tensioner lifters frozen, oil pump tensioner broke in half but stayed in place, just rotated the spring inside so more rattling. Waiting on the oil pump tensioner to put it all back together. Also doing the spark plug service while valve covers are off. An extra day on parts but the owner/master tech said my rover was in great shape. Now the wait...sorry for the crude printing in the pic, just thought any new owners might like to see this ****ery. The oil sending unit sits at the bottom of the block and normally you have to drop the engine to get to it. Torx bit, frozen, grinded a bit and got it out, flattening out the sides of the bolt so they can use a 13mm wrench on it, time and labor saver.
Fun fact, if you decide to do timing chain work and haven't changed your spark plugs out, just do it at the time and save yourself 3.5hrs. Now I did have to eat another 3 hours for the upper and lower coolant hoses and yes, that little ****er at the bottom of the block is a PITA, it even fooled my tech as it didn't seat properly and was blowing coolant out when I pulled up to my house. He sent a flatbed, had it towed to his shop, came in on Sat and fixed it, then he actually drove it back home to me...that's service.
Update, TC tensioners not too bad but the tensioner lifters frozen, oil pump tensioner broke in half but stayed in place, just rotated the spring inside so more rattling. Waiting on the oil pump tensioner to put it all back together. Also doing the spark plug service while valve covers are off. An extra day on parts but the owner/master tech said my rover was in great shape. Now the wait...sorry for the crude printing in the pic, just thought any new owners might like to see this ****ery. The oil sending unit sits at the bottom of the block and normally you have to drop the engine to get to it. Torx bit, frozen, grinded a bit and got it out, flattening out the sides of the bolt so they can use a 13mm wrench on it, time and labor saver.
thanks for the notes.
did you get any video of the engine sound ?
do remember make up of the metal shavings in the oil? Did you have the oil tested?
I have a 2010 RRS SC with an odd ticking sound (it sounds like a timing chain, maybe) with 140k miles. The timing job was completed by the PO 20k ago. I sent out an oil sample to Blackstone for analysis.
Metal shavings seem to be pretty common from what I’m hearing, they tested again and none, the magnet and oil filter must have worked 😎. Previous tech = grifter. From what my tech said the SC rattles much more, makes sense. Sadly no, I didn’t get a recording of the sound but after it warms up and rpm dropped you could hear the slap/tick of the chain, def a discernible sound, especially in a garage. Take a long flat blade screwdriver and press it to the drivers then pass side of the front of the block, if there’s slack slapping around you’ll hear it.
Can you find out of the oil pump tensioner was replaced or oil pump itself? That little black part sits at the bottom drivers side at the front of the engine and keeps tension for the oil pump, mine had cracked enough that the spring had rotated 180* then fell apart when pulled out. $50 part.
Metal shavings seem to be pretty common from what I’m hearing, they tested again and none, the magnet and oil filter must have worked 😎. Previous tech = grifter. From what my tech said the SC rattles much more, makes sense. Sadly no, I didn’t get a recording of the sound but after it warms up and rpm dropped you could hear the slap/tick of the chain, def a discernible sound, especially in a garage. Take a long flat blade screwdriver and press it to the drivers then pass side of the front of the block, if there’s slack slapping around you’ll hear it.
Can you find out of the oil pump tensioner was replaced or oil pump itself? That little black part sits at the bottom drivers side at the front of the engine and keeps tension for the oil pump, mine had cracked enough that the spring had rotated 180* then fell apart when pulled out. $50 part.
thanks for the notes. I’ll try the screw driver suggestion. Based on service records I believe tensioner blades and tensioner lifters were replaced. There isn’t a line item for the chain or the oil lifters. Still it was a $4.5K bit of work - which included a SC snout rebuild. Coming from the Audi bi-turbo 2.7 I thought have a better handle for these engines - a new beast to tame!
I believe the black tensioner is LR parts only, I know it comes in the full kit but the full kit wasn’t ordered, it was like $50 for the part thru my tech.