I just replaced my entire timing chain, both cam sensors, the intake valve solenoid, new water pump, new thermostat, new belts, oil change, new fluid. Yet the P0018 code persists. No matter how many times I have it cleared. Engine is running great and strong. No performance issues. Yet that one code with “engine fault detected”. Is there something else to do to eliminate it? Should I disconnect battery? Any help is appreciated. Note: 2009 Range Rover Sport HSE 4.4l 92k miles.

 

Was that the code that sent you down the chain rabbit hole? If it's a new code after the repair you are out of time. One thought if all mechanical is correct. I have done several chain jobs on the Merc 271 4 cyl cars that have had the original code back with evey start up. Issue is the ECU adapts to the chain stretch and then there is no way to reset that adaptation. Some cars allow for that like Mini. You can try any adaptation resets that you may be able to do with whatever scan tool you hace access to. Also try battery cables held together. That may clear it. In the end the Merc fix was a trip to the dealer to basicly "reinstall" the engine ecu and. That clears all the data that cannot be cleared out

 

Can you elaborate on being “out of time”? Range Rover is driving great since the fix. Just have that persistent code. I’ll try the touching battery leads suggestion and see what happens.

 

P0018 is specific to the intake cam on the right bank not being in time in relation to the crankshaft. Was this code present before you did the work? What was the exact reason for replacing the chains? I assume you locked down the motor with the cam block tools and crank tool as well. My engine is the newer 5.0 but I believe the process is the same. The pretention step before tightening down the cam adjusters is critical as it moves all of the slack in the chain to the adjuster side before you pull the pin on the adjuster. If after the chains are installed you rotated the engine and the lock down tools all fit correctly then the engine is timed correctly.

 

Yes, I had the code prior to doing the timing chain service. Also upon opening the engine up it was discovered that one of the camshaft sprockets was broken (not the teeth but on its body). I originally went to the dealer for the diagnostic exam ($15k quote!) then went to my local mechanic who did it for me for about $4k plus my supplied parts.

 

Well some further diag is needed. I don't know what the skill level of your tech is but the quickest way to determine if the cams are off is to scope the pattern with an oscilliscope and compare to what they should look like. You could play the swapping game with the cam sensors and see if the fault changes to a differnt cam. In that case the code will also change and then you will know you have a faulty sensor. Likely the engine is not in time and the assembly of the chains was done incorrectly.

 

I’m sincerely hoping that’s not the case. Both cam sensors were replaced as well. One shop I took it to prior to having the work done said the VVT Solenoid needed to be replaced and that it may resolve after doing so.

 

VVT usually sets its own faults. If code sets right at start up after bing cleared then it's prob a timing issue witht the cam. Only the intake cams on this motor have sensors. They are different left to right so likely cannot be swapped. My 5.0 has variable timing on all four cams. They both require a preload tension to be placed on the cam sprockets before setting the chain tensioners. My guess is this is where the issue lies. The intake on bank two is just far enough off to set a fault but not far enough off to cause a running issue. I'm sure there are some videos out there that show this procedure so you can have a better understanding of how the sys works. As they say, Timing is everything...

 

I would like to share some professional information to this thread. The VVT solenoid controls the hydraulic pressure - OIL PRESSURE - to the Timing Camshaft Sprocket / Gear. Internally, the gear is adjustable and controlled through the VVT Solenoid. The gear is then allowed to advance or retard the intake or exhaust camshaft as needed with the use of oil pressure. They fail and leak internally allowing the cam to not reach it's desired movement which sets the code as it is read through the camshaft sensor and expected to move to the designated advance or retard position. If it is not achieved, cam timing codes are set. As a rule on a higher mileage vehicle, timing chains, gears, rails, tensioners and solenoids should be installed. You can play the "Lets see what we get" game, but chances are you will get back in there to correct and or replace what was not done initially. This recommendation comes from someone who has found out the hard way and has done many of these repairs in the shop as a technician. Success with all components, rolling the dice and seeing what you get if not replacing the all at the same time. Also, please make sure you use OEM gears as the aftermarket stuff can sometimes cause issues. Do not drop them as the reluctors can bend or move position and then you are back in the same boat.

 

Hi Salvine,

I am having the same issue with the newer 5.0 NA engine (2013). Similarly, I just replaced my entire timing chain system: chains, tensioners, guides, 4 cam sprockets (intake/exhaust), new water pump, new thermostat, new belts, oil change, new fluid, etc..

Engine is running great and strong. No performance issues. But I also get the P0018 code along with the P052C and P0346 codes. I realized that these were permanent codes that required the vehicle to run for 200+ miles but still these codes persist along with the “Restricted Performance” dash warning. I have cleared the pending and stored codes, but they re-appear immediately upon start-up per your comment.

My question is related to your procedure statement. I followed the service manual exactly. I locked down the motor with the cam block tools and crank tool. The manual says to release the pins before setting the pre-tensioners, but you state the opposite. After the chains were installed I rotated the engine and the lock down tools all fit correctly. I suspect this procedure step may be the problem since it seems I am only slightly off.

Is there a way to re-address this slight timing adjustment through the ECU or do I need to re-do the entire timing procedure? Thanks.