Which Battery?
It seems like some have issues, and some don't. The system is "suppose" to do a self calibration over a period of time but it's probably a better option to use the BMS reset tool and just do it that way.
I'll post what they say at the dealer/shop next week.
I'll post what they say at the dealer/shop next week.
Thanks very much for this info. I was going crazy trying to find my aux battery and all I saw was the module in your photo ( mine is a 2018 RRS V6)......took the aux battery back to O'reillys and got a refund. BTW, has anyone confirmed if the dealer has to reset the computer telling the car it has a new battery or will it reset itself ? I am still getting an occasional Low Battery warning. Thanks again
Gary
Gary
Hello Gary,
So, I changed out the battery and was still getting the "low battery/charge" warning. It would only read about 12.5v when I was driving and it would be ok, until I parked and shut her off. I would get the warning again. So I actually bought an Autel Maxicom MK808Z to read the codes and reset the BMS after the new battery swap. Even after I did that, it still did the same thing with the battery warnings. Which lead me to believe it was the alternator. Kind of hard to believe since she's only got about 38k on her.
Took her to the dealer (still under extended warranty) and they changed out the alternator in about 2 days. They reset all the codes/BMS etc... and she's back in business now. *edit: Forgot to add. After the alternator was changed, now the battery is reading 13-14+v while driving.
Learned a lot on these boards.....pulling the cable to shut auto start/stop off now. Seems to be more wear/tear on all components involved.
Here's a link to the tool I purchased.
Cheers
Steve
So, I changed out the battery and was still getting the "low battery/charge" warning. It would only read about 12.5v when I was driving and it would be ok, until I parked and shut her off. I would get the warning again. So I actually bought an Autel Maxicom MK808Z to read the codes and reset the BMS after the new battery swap. Even after I did that, it still did the same thing with the battery warnings. Which lead me to believe it was the alternator. Kind of hard to believe since she's only got about 38k on her.
Took her to the dealer (still under extended warranty) and they changed out the alternator in about 2 days. They reset all the codes/BMS etc... and she's back in business now. *edit: Forgot to add. After the alternator was changed, now the battery is reading 13-14+v while driving.
Learned a lot on these boards.....pulling the cable to shut auto start/stop off now. Seems to be more wear/tear on all components involved.

Here's a link to the tool I purchased.
Cheers

Steve
Last edited by nc1wynot; Mar 24, 2023 at 02:34 PM.
If you know the alternator is bad, replace it.
Once done, go to your local auto parts store and ask them to "test the battery" they will put a handy machine on it that will test your battery, starter and alternator.
I'll bet a dollar that just replacing your alternator fixes your problem.
If not:
This whole thread is overthinking this problem. Test, fix, test. done
Once done, go to your local auto parts store and ask them to "test the battery" they will put a handy machine on it that will test your battery, starter and alternator.
I'll bet a dollar that just replacing your alternator fixes your problem.
If not:
This whole thread is overthinking this problem. Test, fix, test. done
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