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Series 2a, 109, 2.25 Petrol/Gas

Hello. As stated in the subject line, I have this old series I am tearing down. I read through the threads here but not too much I could find on the topic other than a similar question.

I have all new metal to replace whats rusted it but almost hate to take the time to do this work and not reconsider the power plant. Is there anything that is a "simple" V8 replacement on this truck? Ideally I would like more power than what the 2.25 puts out but for me to reverse engineer a Chevy or Ford v8 in is beyond what I can do. Would the old 3.5L V8 drop in? Or what do you recommend with the least amount of fabricating?

 

A lot of people have replaced the 2.25 with other options. My $.02 is that, as anemic as it is, it’s the best part of the drive train. The engine is under powered for the road, but off road it has enough power/torque, and is pretty much indestructible. During the 27 years that I owned my 2A, I broke several axles, 3 diff’s and 1 transmission. The engine never came close to letting me down.
If you do a bit of a search I’m sure you’ll find several good options for an engine replacement.

 

Well I certainly will chalk that up to keeping and rebuilding the 2.25 then! Would be too good to be true if there was some simple bolt in without cutting engine mounts, cross members, trimming the bulkhead and tunnel.... That is just too much for me to undertake so I would consider keeping the lump thats there.

 

You should probably get a few more opinions than mine. It was always my feeling that the engine would be the last drive train item I would replace, but there are certainly others who feel an engine swap is a good idea.

 

After much searching and research for a repower of my 67 109 I am down to two options.

Option 1: Keep it simple and put in a Chevy inline 6, like a 292, 250 or 235. This is a basic workhorse of an engine and is not likely to break down. It will have about double the horsepower the Rover came with. It will fit under the hood without too much fuss and it apparently often bolts up to the current transmission. I don't have an existing transmission. Or an engine, or a transfer case.. or floors. LOL You won't have any computer management bits to fuss with and parts are affordable and plentiful.

Option 2: Purchase a donor vehicle like an S10 or Chevy Blazer or similar vehicle and swap out the engine, transmission and transfer case (which may or may not work). You will have the wiring harness, computer, control modules etc. By purchasing a running donor you can know if the engine is any good. EBay engines are a crap shoot. Crate engines typically come as a short block and by the time you buy all the other parts, you could have bought a donor.

I think a V8 is going to be really tight in the engine bay. That area is pretty tight. Adding power steering, AC etc is going to be quite a puzzle.

 

You are spot on here I think. Discovered the same information too in the last week. I also have a 1964 Series 2a, 88 that a previous owner got a Chevy Vortec V6 in it with the transmission and transfer case. It fits I can tell you and the power is fantastic. Its clear though, there was a bit of fabrication done to do this and I am not this skilled, I don't think.

As for the inline Chevy 250, there's another forum where an expert on these trucks rebuilds these 250's and has any/all adaptors to ensure it will bolt right up to the existing transmission. He claims it can be swapped out and running in the same day. Its a little more than I prefer to spend but his reputation is stellar and Im interested to go this route due to the ease of the swap.


Also - I found this and give credit to: Expedition Land Rover

Hopefully helps?

 

I have read many of those threads with great interest and he is the source of that motor as an option. His swaps are mostly defenders and not Series though. I am hoping to avoid having a pusher fan on the front of my radiator. My 109 had a tired old Ford 302 block in it when I purchased it.

I looked at a new Crate 302 as an option, but a full dress one is $6 grand. Ouch. Then add the AC and Power steering, Transmission, transfer case, etc. I know my restomod is going to be $30K plus but I want to spend where I need to and save where I can. LOL

 

So last week I went and purchased a 1995 Chevy Blazer 4x4. It has the 4.3 V-6 and automatic transmission. I plan to swap over the engine, trans, transfer case (maybe) air conditioning and probably wiring harness. We'll see. I paid $2200 for the Blazer. It has 107,000 miles on it and runs great.

Riverport Rovers has a youtube channel where he worked his way through a similar engine swap. So I am committed now! I wanted to go V-6 for the extra room in the engine bay. I am hoping to avoid having to use an electric fan on the radiator. At least a pusher fan anyway.

 

Oh that’s great news and congrats on that Chevy purchase for the donor. I’ll tell you in the 1964 series 2 a 88 that I have the same 4.3 engine fits in perfectly and the radiator had no need to be pushed forward. In fact I just replaced the radiator with a new one and it bolted right in. While you’re doing it, I would recommend getting some headers rather than the manifolds. The power on this is wonderful. I actually chirped the tires having to pull out fast one day!

As for my 109 I’m in the process of tearing it down and waiting for the other forum member to tell me when the engine will be ready and then I’m going down to pick it up in person unless he says no go.

 

If anyone is considering installing any engine larger than a 2.25 into a Series 2 or 2A I greatly recommend replacing the complete rear axle with a Series 3 rear axle assembly. They can take any reasonable torque that a upgraded engine can deliver, otherwise if you stay with the stock rear axle assembly then buy a truck load of rear axle shafts, both sides, and be ready to pull the diff and remove the stub then replace broken axle shafts at any time if you are off road.
The series 3 rear axle is basically bulletproof but the older series axles are designed for the 2.25 engine torque.