i also would remake all the o2 sensor and make sure they have dielectric grease in them

 

I understand that all of the O2 sensors are new as you have stated that a few times. I'm asking if you made sure that the plugs were clean on the truck before you connected the new O2 sensors. Did anybody give them a close look or spray them with electrical cleaner? Just another possible issue that could be ruled out.

As for the heat, if you are certain that nothing got into the lines or block during the engine removal or installation or that nothing began to gel in the heater core while it was exposed to air (like stop leak poured into the cooling system by a previous owner) then you don't need to bother with flushing it out. I just offered some advice based on what I found to be the case with my truck and what others have found with their trucks as well. If you would rather leave it as is and chalk it up to some unknown force be my guest. You can always dress in layers.

 

No man I appreciate your thoughts on the matter and I will look into the heater core. I just wanted to clarify how well the heater was working up to the the day I dropped the truck off at the shop. Is there any write up for flushing the core on the D2? I hate messing with the cooling system after having everything replaced and in good shape but Ill do what I have to do. As for the 02 sensors, I dont have an answer because Don of Anarchy Fabworx is the guy who did all the work. I have no idea what the old sensors looked like when they were pulled and i have no idea if he applied any grease to the new ones. All I know for sure is that 1 of the 4 new sensors was bad out of the box so I had to request a replacement from RN. I also know that he had a hell of a time removing the old sensors and he mentioned something about having to rethread something... as soon as my refund deposits Im going to order that diagnostic computer though and try and figure out what these codes are. Im reluctant to pull out the o2 sensors because they are such a PITA to remove and refit but Ill do whatever I have to do.

Dont mean to come off as an ******* with you folks, just feel frustrated about the codes and other **** going on in personal life. Your feedback is always appreciated as is your support!

 

Weak heat can point to air in the heater core.

 

Will Tillery has galvanized D2 frames for $2400.
https://discoweb.org/forums/showthre...e=#post1033536

 

Thanks Fish for the link, unfortunately non-members cannot see posts on Disco-Web.

I just ordered a iCarsoft LR II Scanner from RN and should get it tomorrow. With this tool at my disposal I should be able to get to the bottom of these codes and find resolve. I hope its just another bad 02 sensor because RN will just have to send me a second one! If its anything beyond my capabilities than I can always take the truck to DAP in Springfield VT. Does anyone know if this scan tool can program or re-program LR key fobs? If not than it looks like Ill be driving down to Peabody MA very soon to get my fob re-programed. I will post pics of the scanner and some updates on what I find momentarily.

I'm in the market for a used electric fan assembly and a drive side exterior door mirror for my truck, if anyone has both feel free to shoot me a PM and I will Paypal you the funds for the right price shipped to Chester Vermont. As for the heater core.... had I known about this while I was ordering all the overhaul parts, I would have included a new core. Fortunately they are cheap so I will be ordering a new core in afew weeks. Im taking no chances with the cooling system in this truck. Every cooling part must be replaced and properly "BABIED" thereafter. There will be no overheating if I have anything to do with it.

On a side note my vacation is over and I just took a temp full time job in Springfield VT. Will be in this area short term until I make a decision weather to return to Alaska later this year or not. Cost of living in this **** hole is through the roof, cant understand why as its far from the ocean and not a tourist destination. Should I decide to take a long break from the fishing than my aim would be to relocate to a coastal area. Maine, Mass, NH or CT. If anyone has any recommendations or knows of a affordable studio or campground in the above mentioned areas, please feel free to let me know.

 

No need to go to the dealer for key fob programming. Any shop with a Nanocom or Testbook can do it, and most shops that work on Rovers should have one of those. Here's a thread to check: Nanocom help needed to program key fob! Penrith area - Australian Land Rover Owners and here's a video showing how to do it with a Nanocom: .

 

I'm not sure which shops carry that computer diagnostic software needed for re-programing key fobs. My first bet would be DAP Enterprise. I'll contact them this week and figure that out.

 

This is my first time using this kind of software and it will take me some time to get the hang of its uses, so bare with me. The icarsoft confirms that the 3 trouble codes are indeed related to the 02 sensors. Here is what I got:

 

I proceeded to do a o2 sensor test. There are two options to select: ECU1 and ECU2. Due to complications with the icarsoft device I only was able to test everything under the ECU1 menu. My findings:

Bank 1 Sensor 1 - maximum sensor voltage and time transition failed
Bank 1 sensor 2 - maximum sensor voltage failed
Bank 2 sensor 1 - maximum sensor voltage and time transition failed
Bank 2 sensor 2 -maximum sensor voltage failed

So with this new knowledge, I'm still not really sure what all this means. Does it mean one or more of my o2 sensors are bad despite the fact that all sensors were replaced during engine swap? Or does it mean a circuit that feeds electricity to/from the o2 sensors is bad? What should my next steps be? What should I look for next on my truck?