I've literally just been thinking about doing the same thing. Assuming that's plasti-dip with adehesion promoter? How has it worked out so far?

 

Adhesion promoter for the wheel arches only cause I used regular black plastic paint intended for Automotive Plastics.

On the Grill, it's straight up plastic dip - no adhesion promoter. On the wheel arches, anything I did to it would have looked better than the faded plastic. I had already tried chemicals & heat gun. I got good results just cleaning them up and painting them.

 

Well.. finally got around to replacing my corroded air tank.... sprayed an extra layer of protection on with some bed liner coating before install... should keep the wheel spray damage down.


I love working on these trucks! Everything (except the 22 computers) is so simple and owner repairable.

 

Starting to tear down for bushing/control arms and axle replacement. Parts are on order so she's gonna be on jackstands for awhile.

Why is it always the rustiest bolt that's out of the way of the impact gun? My arm hurts.

 

Speaking of bolts, I normally order new bolts and nuts as well. At least then all is new and it goes back together a bit easier.

None of that underside stuff is my idea of fun.

 

I grabbed some 06-08 Range Rover 19inch Rims/Tires and installed them onto my 06 HSE. Something about the stock 19's on the HSE I just didn't care for. Now it has a more updated look. I also replaced all the rear brake lights, reverse, rear fogs, front parking lights (little clear ones in the headlight assembly), parking lights, and license plate lights with Sylvania LED's.



Good thing I changed the front orange parking light bulbs in the front headlights as they were actually starting to melt into the headlight assembly. I had no trouble breaking one free, but one I had to take a small screw driver and just destroy the bulb in order to get it out.

 

Ended up having to cut the arm out in pieces and cut the upper bushing/ball joint .

Bolts on the way.

 

I have the same color combo but painted my wheels black and think yours would look killer with this setup plus no more cleaning brake dust.

 

I noted the wheel change and it brought to mind an entry in my album regarding LR wheel load rating.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous/LR3 Sparkle Silver 6 spoke Wheel Cromodora of Italy 19 inch x 8 ALY72191U

The bulb concern puzzles me as the Euro spec bulb as below if installed, should be OK. Yes, the P27/7W is a bit brighter and therefore hotter than many similar looking bulbs but as long as the OEM bulb is used, it should be OK.

On my 3, for the orange park light/signal light bulb, I use a clear Euro spec two filament P27/7W, LR part number XZQ500050, (GE3157), bulb with the wedge base. The rear signal light bulbs are a less bright cooler clear single filament bayonet base P21, LR part number 264591 unit.

 

It just occurred to me; I think you were referring to what I call the side marker bulbs?

If so, yes, there are two style peanut wedge bulbs that are used on the 3.

The 5 watt W5W, (AFU4481), and the cooler less bright 3 watt W3W , (573289). They look identical and LR has at times, mispackged them - that is put the hotter W5W bulb in the 3 watt bag, and hence when you unknowingly install the W5W, the bulb melts into the yellow lens.

If you look closely at the bulb, the W3W or W5W is printed vaguely on the glass but it is near impossible to read.

The W5W is used in the license plate and most other places; the W3W seems to be only for the side marker bulbs, front and rear.

I am not certain what is up in the reading lamps.