As you can see, main bearing caps are held on by 2 bolts each. Why didn't he remove the cap and look at the bearing?? Use a micrometer to measure the journal, to see if the crank is damaged, or just the bearing.
One of the pins you see is from the crank sensor.
It reads/counts the teeth as they spin by.
Could the damaged teeth cause a misfire?
Technically yes, but I am not familiar enough with these engines to say if the teeth damage pictured is enough to cause a misfire or not.
You may very well get away with new crank and rod bearings, front cover, and possibly a flywheel(if so, flexplate should be done then also, $60).
I haven't listened to the video to tell if the top end has been damaged or not.
Given what you have, you still seem better off rebuilding it.

 

Bought a complete set of rod bearings from Lucky 8. They will be here Monday. I hope the front cover is still good. Running out of money.

 

This looks bad.

 

There are four bolts that hold each main bearing cap in place, two vertical through cap and two horizonal through block. Picture below shows them. Rod bearing caps only have two bolts/nuts.



Crank Positioning Sensor has one magnetic stem, pictured below. The teeth that you have pictured, are the ones the starter engages with...to turn the engine during cranking. The tone ring, where the crank sensor gets it info from, are the moon shaped cut-outs in the flywheel. The crank sensor stem rides along in the groove and senses the moon shape teeth. There is one location on the tone ring that has a wider opening, this is number one cylinder top dead center reference point for the computer.



That is quite a bit of material on your finger. I'd probably drop each cap, one at a time, and replace bearings (rods and mains). Flushing as much of the debris out of the crank journal and oil feed hole as possible. You would use Plastigauge for measuring clearances in the bearings, no need to micrometer the journals...which is impossible to do the mains with crank in engine anyway. If the surfaces are smooth, they are probably fine. Replace pump and housing, run for a few minutes and chang oil, repeat again (run and change).

The residue on the cylinder walls is hard to determine condition by the picture(s). I'd pull plugs and douse the cylinders with clean oil, rotate engine by hand and then crank by battery with plugs still out (blowing excess oil out, so stand clear).

Reassemble, after oil change, crossing fingers and a small prayer to whomever floats your boat and start her up.

Brian.

 

We removed to crank rod main bearing and found that one side closest to the transmission is indeed scored. Looks like the upper bearings are the culprit. How do we remove them? Does the entire crank rod need to be removed? Is there any way to just push them up and out?

 

Can you feel those grooves with your fingernail?

Yes, the bearings can be removed. You'll notice that one end of the bearing has a notch that fits into rod (rod bearing) or block (main bearing). Just use a small flat blade screwdriver and push up on the opposite side, once it has moved a little, grab the notched end with your fingers and pull it the rest of the way out.

Number three main looks suspect also. You are really in a gray area of repair. Borderline issues. I hope those that are following along learn from this...if the oil light comes on...stop engine as soon as possible...and never start again.

Brian.

 

Am I looking at coolant seeping through cracks in the liner?

 

This is my oil pump. Gears are not broken as folks suspected. Can this front cover be re-used? Lucky 8 is out of stock. Atlantic British sells 3? One is $600.....

 

Looking up through the engine in person I did not get the impression there was any coolant leaking through the liners. The yellow like color seems to be the color ofnpretty much everything on the bottom of the block. I took this picture because there is a pink spot which looks out of place. Harder to tell in this pic but there was no other spot on the block that I could see that had this strange pink like hue to it. The mechanic pointed it out. Not sure what it is. I use 50/50 Peak coolant which is bright green.

 

The wear looks extreme on the gears and the cover.

I’m stumped without being able to see the cam bearings and top end.