I'm guessing the outer ring is supposed to be stationary? What keeps it from spinning in the housing?

 

The more I see of these things...the more I believe...that we should have let Germany take over England...they'd have benefitted 100%.

No, I would not reuse that pump/cover assembly. My mind questions...what caused this? Why did it fail or what got inside there to cause those grooves. Haven't seen a proverbial "smoking gun" yet. And again...pictures are only so good. Shadowing, deflection of light, etc, etc...causes issues viewing. Plus, this tablet is substandard compared to the monitor at work.

Anyhow, based on what "l'm" see...I'm a little lost in the advice category...for now.

Brian.

 

This is what I would do.

Change rod bearings, crank bearings, and new front cover/Oil pump gear.

All of this can be done with the motor in the vehicle. The trickiest is the crank bearings, there is a write up in the sticky section by rovermastertech.

This is not a guarantee that it will work, but you have gone this far, might as well try it. Leave the misfire mystery for another day.

good luck.

 

I do not know why or how the failure happened. The mechanic is asking the same question because the oil pump does not look bad save for the groves. The wear on the crank is also not too bad. All I know is that when he tested the oil pressure he was getting 0 reading from the block.

Turner Engineering is reviewing my case and developing a theory. They emailed me this morning with afew specific questions as follows:
From Turner:
1 auto or manual gearbox?

2 octane rating of fuel used and/or high ethanol content?

3 any chip or tuning carried out or standard?

4 the wear on the centre main is more pronounced on one side (thrust washer bearing) is the wearing front or back looking from the oil pump end of the engine as this is extremely significant



I have a few ideas but if you could answer the above first please and look forward to hearing from you

 

Why would you drive to NC to even buy that?

 

Long story. Refer to my older threads.

 

Not sure but I believe he is showing you why he does not buy one locally and why he is getting one from a southern climate. The pic is his current vehicle, not the new one.

 

Alright so I guess Ill order "ANOTHER" new front cover... Can you guys help me figure out which part number I need? Cannot believe how many there are.

1 LJR000220
- LJR000220.C8
- LJR000220.Z8
- LJR000220A.M8
- LJR000220.L8
2 LJR105040
3 ERR6438

My vin: ...4A856390
My truck:
2004

 

Yes, if that's the one he's buying...then I'd hate to see the one he's replacing...if there is anything to see...lol.

 

I assumed everyone was up to speed with my plans on buying a rust free d2 in Rockwell NC from Tarheel Rovers. The plan was to swap this engine into the donor. I uploaded pictures of the truck. Obviously the truck on the lift is my current rusted out truck. Why would I buy another D2 anywhere in New England when pretty much all of them are rotted out due in part to the salt? Logically the further south or west you go the better your chances of finding a rust free donor.

Unfortunately Tarheel is ****ing me right now and now I need to source another rust free donor. Hes mad because I can no longer give him this POS of a truck so he wants out of the deal. When it rains it pours. I was suppose to drive down, give him this truck plus $1400 then pay a mechanic $1300 to swap the engine and bumper over to the donor then drive back home with a rust free truck. Alas when the oil pump failed those plans went out the window.