The rust on the cylinder walls suggests coolant.

 

Sure appears that way.

The one sleeve even looks like there's a small piece missing at the "crack".

 

So what I need to know now is weather or not I can re-use either my current front cover or the spare I bought from Tarheel. Secondly the surface from which we removed the lower main bearing has a rgove notched into it as seen in pics. Will replacing oth upper and lower main bearings suffice or would the entire unit (not sure what its called) need to be replaced? How do we verify weather or not coolant is in the sleevs? I need certainy not just heresay. If there is in fact coolant leaking into the block what does this imply? Bad head gaskets? Crack in the block? Etc. Tomorrow Im going back to the shop to have a closer look at the front cover and Im gonna use a rag to clean up the cylinder sleeves so I can get a better look. I need to know weather its okay to give the go ahead to replace the oil pump or if I need to wait.

I emailed Turner with the update and all the pics. Hopfully they will have more professional insight though I doubt Ill hear from them until next week.

 

So in the event that this engine is not a total loss and if it can be squared away once the main bearings and oil pump are replaced then what I might do is find a cheap way to get the donor white D2 towed from Rockwell NC to the shop here in Claremont NH. Then buy a cheap 4x4 bester for less than $500 and use that as my daily driver for afew weeks while the engine is pulled and installed in the donor d2. Instead of buying a spare flex plate or gear ring I could possibly use the ones on the donor truck (assuming they are in good shape). If the donor truck still has its coil pack then ill use that one too. This way I can rule out the coil packs, flex plate and gear ring as possible culprits for the misfires.

This would be a long shot. I put up a $500 bid on U-Ship to see about getting the donor truck transported up here. Im gonna call U-haul tomorrow and see how much 8t would cost round trip to rent a ven and auto transport trailer, drive down to Rockwell, and bring back the donor truck. Alot to think about, alot to do. If anyone has additional suggestions let me know. If I do vive up on this piece of **** of a truck then Im pretty much throwing $20k down the drain. If I keep it and Rover on then I might be able to ride away in a rust free white D2 with a good engine and some confidence in my ability to work on this engine in the field. Fate is my guiding light.

 

This is kind of weird, would have suspected the oil pump gear to be much worse than it is. Granted, I'm not seeing a picture of the front cover, just gear and rear cover...maybe they just aren't loading on my tablet. Anyhow, our 03's pump looked much worse than yours, our rod/main journals and bearings looked ten times worse than yours...and it had oil pressure and didn't sound anything like yours. No clattering, no low oil pressure light...none of that. I'm with Abran...you need to look further into the cause of oil pressure loss.

That rust color "could be" from running it with no oil pressure, stripping the cylinder walls of any oil protection...then parking it outside in the severe temperature swings we've had (causing condensation). Normally, there will be a little film of oil on the internals of the engine (even after sitting for extended periods) and this keeps rust from forming inside the engine cavity.

As far as flywheel goes...where and how did you come up with this theory about the "CPS causing misfire at certain cylinders"? This is truly illogical. Like I mentioned before...the CPS job is to tell the ECU where the crank is positioned at, in reference to cylinder number one...that's it...period. It either does this (when working properly) or it doesn't (if malfunctioning). The CPS senses the revolutions of the engine while cranking/running by those moon shaped grooves in the flywheel. You will notice in your pictures, where you can see a longer groove...that is the reference point in the flywheel that says...number one cylinder is at top-dead-center. It is saying to the ECU as the crank rotates...there's number one cyl, there's number one cyl, there's number one cyl, over and over again. It doesn't tell the computer (ECU) where number 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 are at. The computer just "knows that" through internal programing. Basically, there is no way one or two cylinders could be misfiring because of a damage sensor groove, CPS or flywheel...it would affect the entire engine and stop it from running.

Remember reading/following along on your build topic about the misfire, but naturally, can't remember everything you tried to remedy the issue. But, that's for another day. You need to find the cause of the low/no oil pressure first. Need picture of front cover and cam bearings.

You need to turn that engine over by hand and inspect cylinder walls thoroughly. If the skirts of those pistons were wearing into the cylinder walls on the bottom side...you may be done like a duck. I can see some of the cross-hatch honing marks in most of the pictures you've posted...which is a good thing...but the wear would be on the bottom side of the cylinder walls...and I'm not able to see that. Determining the condition of an engine over the internet, by pictures and second hand information is extremely tough. Just doing the best with what we have to work with. Your mechanic "should be " able to guide you better than us.

Good luck, a lot ofc decisions to be made...for sure.

Brian.

 

TRIARII, thank you for all your posts and pictures. We are all racking our brains trying to help you figure this out, as this can happen to any of us. We appreciate the learning opportunity.
You appear to have had a catastrophic oil pressure loss, yet your oil pump shows no reason for it. Could it be a pickup tube problem? I would say maybe a blocked passage somehow, but 0 pressure at the pump...
I can't figure out if you bought this D2 with the Turner engine or you bought the engine afterwards. I think Turner would like to see it for evaluation. They seem to be trying to help, and wouldn't want any reliability issues in question with their engines.
If this was my engine, I would be doing a complete rebuild, (incliding align boring everything), or taking a chance on a junkyard engine or cheap D2 needing HG...
See, my HG are leaking, my D2 is parked, and I am reluctant to tear into it because of posts like this. I don't want to open a can and have worms spilling out either...
Sorry for your troubles, and good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this year ends better than it started for you.
L.

 

Why would you tow a Rover from NC when there's probably one in your state or a state that's closer?

Right now at our upullits, engines are less than $200, you pull it yourself.

Disassemble it while in the yard before you pay for it, verify it looks good, and then buy it.

There's a huge misconception about junkyard cars, especially here in PA. Many of the cars here are driven to the yard as the owners want the $200-$300 the yard gives them for it.
They also put bids on cars from copart which most of the time are insurance cars. Smashed front ends etc. Since rovers values are almost nil, they might not spend the money on an accident car...just total it.

Hell, right now there's an 01 SD, 114,000 miles, nothing wrong with it, dent free, super clean for $2200 in my area. You'd be miles ahead.

 

Better pics of the oil pump and covers. What do you guys think? Can I reuse the the front covers?

 

Because of this:

 

I wouldn't. But that's me. It already has some damage.