Harbor Frieght has standard and metric o-ring kits too.
It's also a good idea to use a small amount of vasoline on o-rings.
It helps to keep them from sticking and getting pinched or damaged during assembly.

 

Which L8 hg set did you get? I got one from them that was $85 and it came with head bolts....looks like correct o-ring is in the kit... I gues I'll check that one.

 

I just got the $85 one as well -- should have picked up a set of the erling (sp?) HG's though, apparently they'll swap them out for the ones in the kit but I didnt' call them..

Got an o-ring from the depot of the home, had to sorta stretch it to fit but it feels nice and snug when placed to the lower IM. Hopefully it'll work

 

Whew. All put back together

I'd say out of this whole process that the drivers side rear head bolts and the stupid f-cking coil pack bolts were by far the most annoying items out of everything. Defo going to be doing the coil pack relocation at some point. No real issues while putting things back together, lost a bolt that holds the SAI solenoid to the bracket but found another that was a bit smaller hanging out on the CPS cover -- yay.

Just need to change the oil and get a jug of coolant at this point.

Whats the best way to start the engine after being put together? Pull the fuel relay and crank it a few times to get oil circulated?

 

Also, what is mildly irritating is that i spent all this time cleaning everything and you can't see a damn thing under the upper intake manifold.

 

Glad to see it's back together! We ending up grinding the top half of the coil pack bracket off, and now it doesn't snag the gasket when pulling off the upper intake manifold. I didn't know there was a relocation option Pulling the fuel pump and ignition relays then priming it a few times worked for Buzz.

 

 

Damnit.

I'll start with the good. MagPie started basically on the first turn of the key! Such a relief when that happens.. I was able to turn the car around in the parking spot so that the nose would be slightly more elevated from the rear of the car.

Ok, and now for the bad. IT STILL F-CKING OVERHEATS!! Just idling in the parking spot, the temps shot up to 230 and continued to keep climbing so I shut it off. All coolant hoses are hot to the touch and you can sqweeze any one of them and see movement of coolant in the expansion tank. In addition to that, i really hope my eyes were playing tricks on me because at the bleed screw i thought i saw some oil in the coolant -- like a tiny tiny amount. Nothing in the expansion tank.

Truck is misfiring, got a P1300 code via ultra gauge but my Atel 619 says there isn't any codes I had fixed the spark plug wire that came apart during disassembly (lead stayed on the spark plug - brand new magnicor wires) but maybe that didn't work.

ALSO the stupid ****ing oil drain plug threads were garbage -- PO had some sort of expanding rubber / screw drain plug on there rather than a bolt.

Damnit damnit damnit.

I really want to get a U joint from the hardware store and bypass the heater core and see what that does.

 

Are you sure the serp belt is routed the right way? Did you replace the fan clutch? Did the electric fans come on? There might an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system. There might be oil in the coolant from cleaning, I'd be more worried about coolant in the oil which looks like a milkshake.