If you're doing vac lines etc go on Atlantic British or something like that and look at PCV kits too. May as well do em. They're cheap enouhh

 

Hey, I got a 2000 Disco, need same help, no nada on the core support...I broke a few,,,of those pesky hard lines...inot pieces...trying to piece that crap back together and figure out where it goes is a pain in the exhaust...other than that, it's back together after a re-surface and valve job...
Next is lube, re-lube and then GREASE all the u-joints and CV...pull the insulation OFF the hood, tip toe down to the radiator shop for a flush job. Has anyone dis-abled the SAI? I want to, seems like a bad system on a rig w/ DIRE over-heating problems...
PS: HAPPY NEW YEARS!!! And "May your Rover run happily for the coming year..."( best done in an Indian accent...)

 

SAI system only works for a less than a couple of minutes under certain conditions. IMHO your time and money for overheat would yield better results looking at things like in-line thermostat or the Ultra Gauge. Even if you removed the SAI components, the ECU would still be looking for them and throw codes. Also might not pass inspection or be able to sell vehicle in some states. No, the EPA won't come to your house, but I bet our finest minds in Washington are working on it....

 

Some thoughts on using a lower temp than stock thermostat: the computer will always interpet the lower operating temperature as a "cold engine" and keep the mixture higher assuming it's WARMING up the engine still...this leads to POOR gas milage and washing out your rings...
Normally, when using a low temp thermomstat, it is accompanird by a "performance" chip designed to operate at the specific temp of the given thermstat.
Hey, Savanah Buz, I appreciate the comment on the SAI. It's short operational duration is good to know. I have been blocking off the EVIL EGR's for YEARS! I hate spending hours and hours on porting, polishing, matching, cc'ing, only to load the ENTIRE thing contaminated with crappy exhaust schleck...and as of yet, the EPA hasn't used satellite tracking to locate my heat signature and hunt me down...
But, they're sure as hell training us to be OK w/ them tracking our EVERY move...
"OnStar", "safe driver tracking"...they've been talking about chipping us for years...
They just have to come-up w/ an excuse we'll buy...the "terrorist" threat is a step, next they'll threaten us with ALIENS...Ronald Ragan said during his presidency, that we "needed" an alien attack/threat to "unite" us... Carter said we "should" have a magnetic strip IMPLANTED on our wrists to enable better "policing"...Bush, jr spent $5 billion installing cameras on the street corners of America...Land of the FREE...
Enough of the soap box...the Disco runs this weekend...I let you know how it goes...& if I get the VACUUM lines in the right places...the 1st, 2nd, er,a THIRD time...

 

With repect to "cold" stat, the system uses that temp until the "closed loop" condition is reached, then the MAF and O2 readings have a lot more to do with things. A D2 comes with a stock 180 F opening stat, and a D1 comes with a 192F stock one, the assumption is that the D2 remote will have some sort of delay and be closer to 195 anyway. And given problems with HG, a little colder might cost some mpg (I haven't noticed it), but might be offset by other things.

Heres a note from the RAVE on the D2:

Should the sensor fail the ECM has a back up strategy that uses a changing default value during warm up based on
the signal from the inlet air temperature sensor. When the strategy default value reaches 60

implements a fixed default value of 85 °C (185 °F). It will also illuminate the MIL.

So if cooling sensor is unplugged, ECU will wait until incoming air temp is 140F in the throttle air pipe then use a default value of 185F for coolant temp readins. Based on that, I guess Rover "likes" 185 just fine, too bad too many are running around at 219F.

 

Resurrecting this old thread to say thank you for this original post, I could not figure out where the extremely dry-rotted vacuum line was supposed to go. I have the brake plunger hanging from it under the dash (not connected to anything) and a random hose running to the front of the car, not connected to anything. I am having starting issues, which I think are now CPS related, but was worried I was looking at a fuel pressure regulator issue as well... the damaged lines had me nervous and this confirmed I was looking at CC and not something else. What a HUGE help, thank you.