Need to Swap a Transfer case, few pointers please...
#51
#52
By Rovahfarm kit, I'm assuming you mean gaskets and seals...
1) Pressure wash your donor case within an inch of it's life. Oh, and drain it of gear oil.
2) Kit contains everything you need for a full teardown and rebuild. I didn't do that.
3) first one I replaced was the inspection plate, its on the bottom, by drain plug. Take out 10mm bolts, 14mm bolt, and 2 studs. Tap the edge with a mallet to break loose the RTV nastiness.
4) Scrub it all clean, particularly the mating surfaces where the gaskets sit.
5) Scrub it again. Hope your significant other is running late so you have time to clean up the oil/soap mess from around the kitchen sink..
6) align gasket, install and snug 4 corner bolts first, then fill in perimeter. A picture taken with phone pre-teardown is helpful for putting bolts back in the right place.
Procedure is same for all junctions. I didn't want to break case apart, so I did the two inspection plates, the CDL gasket and left it at that. Oh, and the rear circular access panel and sandwich ring. You REALLY have to try the install with that removed. Laughably simpler.
Seal - I replaced the input seal where trans shaft enters. pry it out, don't lose any bits of it inside the case. I used a screwdriver. Don't mar up the aluminum case, it's soft. Seat seal with large socket, or gentle love with machinist mallet.
Basically, I looked at my donor case, and anywhere it was leaky and cruddy, I replaced. If it wasn't leaking, I said screw it. I can have this thing back out in 3 hours next time.
Save all gaskets and seals that you don't use. I firmly believe if you have the parts in the garage, the rover will behave. If you throw them out the rover gods will smite your wallet with firebolts.
1) Pressure wash your donor case within an inch of it's life. Oh, and drain it of gear oil.
2) Kit contains everything you need for a full teardown and rebuild. I didn't do that.
3) first one I replaced was the inspection plate, its on the bottom, by drain plug. Take out 10mm bolts, 14mm bolt, and 2 studs. Tap the edge with a mallet to break loose the RTV nastiness.
4) Scrub it all clean, particularly the mating surfaces where the gaskets sit.
5) Scrub it again. Hope your significant other is running late so you have time to clean up the oil/soap mess from around the kitchen sink..
6) align gasket, install and snug 4 corner bolts first, then fill in perimeter. A picture taken with phone pre-teardown is helpful for putting bolts back in the right place.
Procedure is same for all junctions. I didn't want to break case apart, so I did the two inspection plates, the CDL gasket and left it at that. Oh, and the rear circular access panel and sandwich ring. You REALLY have to try the install with that removed. Laughably simpler.
Seal - I replaced the input seal where trans shaft enters. pry it out, don't lose any bits of it inside the case. I used a screwdriver. Don't mar up the aluminum case, it's soft. Seat seal with large socket, or gentle love with machinist mallet.
Basically, I looked at my donor case, and anywhere it was leaky and cruddy, I replaced. If it wasn't leaking, I said screw it. I can have this thing back out in 3 hours next time.
Save all gaskets and seals that you don't use. I firmly believe if you have the parts in the garage, the rover will behave. If you throw them out the rover gods will smite your wallet with firebolts.
Mine isn't even leaking! but the moment I put it on without some attention, the Rover gods will command it to leak.
Just what I needed to know. Thanks!
Wow, the picture of the guts of your tcase... WOW!!!!
#53
I tried to use the gaskets only out of that kit and my T-Case started leaking within a week. I resealed with RTV and all is good. I think they started using RTV on the D2 because they learned a lesson from the D1, just my personal opinion.
So you didn't replace the output seals while you had the T-Case off?
So you didn't replace the output seals while you had the T-Case off?
Last edited by R0VERGUY; 09-02-2015 at 10:47 PM.
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