Mine did the same thing over the weekend. Looks like it went backwards, but it has features the new Defenders I have been in have.

Rob

 

Yeah I actually see some changes on this 2.0.6 version. I didn’t notice anything different on the previous 2.0.8 update.

If only a software update would somehow fix the keyless entry.

 

The iphone 12 issues is very annoying - and apparently common issue with most car wireless chargers with iphone 12s. This is an Apple hardware/software screw up with the MagSafe used in the new phones. The magnets they use apparently render QI chargers useless and if they do work, is slower than a slow wireless charge.. Frustration should be aimed at Apple on the wireless charging front. They seem to soley think about themselves and selling new accessories while trying to save the world by now omitting chargers in their case. However, they make you go buy new ones. All other phones seem to charge fine on the Defender. I am sure Land Rover will do nothing to fix this from their end.

 

Not sure it’s all Apple’s fault ... my iPhone 12 Pro with non-Apple minimalist case started charging instantly when I placed it on the wireless charging mat of the 2021 Toyota Highlander I recently rented.

 

I tend to think it is an Apple issue as well but a case can have a big impact on QI chargers. My iPhone 10 has been flawless in Defender withApple thin fold over case.

 

seems to be a compatibility thing with likely some responsibility on both ends. when the phone works on a dozen various non apple branded qi chargers i have but just not the defender i'm not sure you can put that all on apple.

i don't care what root cause is however. i'd just prefer it worked. but, i also don't care that much. maybe if the defender had wireless carplay it would be more relevant to me to have it also charge wirelessly.

i pulled out the little rubber pad to see what was underneath. if i was more ambitious i'd maybe mount a magsafe charger under there. it would likely work through the thin rubber mat piece. i have the apple magesafe duo charger i was going to test that with. but then i'd also need a clean way to provide it power.

 

Just read the Apple Communities board. It is a major issue which Apple is rumored to be working on a software fix - but who knows if that will solve anything. Been reports since October and in December, someone confirmed they are working on a software fix. Apple will never admit fault on anything, especially hardware or design. The magsafe magnets cause many Qi Chargers not to work properly. And even if your phone connects, read the Apple disclaimer that the Qi chargers will actually work slower than normal wireless due to magsafe. It is a big issue with a lot of cars and Qi chargers. I have no hope LR will ever address it either. My dealer said he never heard about the issue...

The case isn't the issue for me but certainly can be for some. Every other phone (non- iphone 12 ) works fine.. Our iphone 12s don't work on our BMW X7 either. (with no case). Get error.

 

REPORTING BACK
Last week I mentioned I had an appointment at my dealer in Seattle to change my oil- yes I know early. Couldn’t help it so I changed it at 5400) miles since it was a new vehicle. I will relax schedule now. BUT since I was headed in I asked them to check out my battery. I had started to wonder if my 2 remaining oddities were possibly related to a poor battery. These were very intermittent and ONLY ever occurred first start of the day. Both always went away after I stopped and restarted especially if I drove just a few miles. The first was the “Emergency Braking and Steering Not Available” and the second was a black screen in front of the driver where map info should be. I run in full map in front of driver. And really like it for normal driving. At the same time the navigation map is working on the PIVI P.

Before going into dealer and after looking at a good many posts on this I connected my CTEK 5 amp smart charger to the posts under the hood. 15 hours later I finally achieved a “full” battery. This made me think my battery had been running at a low state of charge which made no sense since it drive the Defender daily. After the charge I checked the voltage at those posts and it read a steady 13 volts which in my mind indicates a fully charged AGM. I should have read at least 12.8 or 12.9. Now the CTEK had not gone into the final Pulse mode so there may have been a few % to go. Now it gets interesting-

The next 4 mornings with daily driving each day I read first thing before I started 12.3, 12.4, 12,3 and 12.2. This is roughly a 60-70% charge on an AGM battery. I even started turning off auto stop start mode to keep the charging engaged.

NOTE- there was some discussion on there being a 2nd start battery. I do not mean the 48 volt Mild Hybrid Turbo Lag boosting P400 battery. On my P300 the auto stop start is accomplished now (unlike on older models) with a capacitor SO I only have the one battery. Maybe it’s the same on the P400.

At the dealer they went through my battery and all my modules and reset the battery management system which must be done each time you change a battery. I recall and there isn’t a record of my salesman mentioning that they “sanded” my brake pads slightly and did something/changed my delivery battery before I took possession. It will remain a mystery. They found a targeted software update that addressed my map lag or blackness in front of the driver and installed it. By the way I got an update ball but no info related to it nor did my 2.0.8 main software version change. My Live Apps software versions also remained unchanged. BUT the screen display in front of driver now is more instantaneous than before -for now

I am perplexed as to why that fix was not part of a normal SOTA update?? The software process questions continue for all of us.

What happed on my roughly 1 1/2 hour of driving home? The car drove very well as always without either of the 2 occasional issues. This morning I continued my checking of system voltage after an overnight in the garage and the voltage was 12.2. I find this strange personally as I would NEVER accept a 60-70 % AGM battery state of charge as normal on our boat while resting just for longevity reasons. Resetting the battery management brain or really the electrical capacity tank gage should have changed the result in my mind. We actually have to do this with the AGM charging system in boats sometimes. I am now topping off my battery with the CTEK unit and will take it through to pulse mode.

QUESTION - Does anyone else know what their battery voltage is first thing each morning? Maybe this is “normal” to have around 12.2-12.4 showing.

I did stay away from testing at the actual battery or charging there due to the many cautions about destroying a module that is attached to one of the battery leads. I also certainly didn’t want to disconnect the battery to charge it. My service advisor saw no issues with what I did and I assume if a charging unit can read voltage at the posts under hood to change modes then it is a reasonable place to do so. I also checked the battery voltage with the vehicle running and read 15 volts which seems reasonable as well for a bulk charge. My charger which I really like found no faults or no lack in ability to hold a charge.

All for now - thanks for any input from others on this battery question.

 

With all the instrumentation in this truck, I'm mystified that I can't get an ammeter or state of charge meter without hooking up an external meter.

 

I suppose that would be a relatively easy thing to do - built in voltage meter I mean- that would probably give a decent indication of battery state.