Not driveable anymore.

 

I find this failure sort of odd. I heard nothing about it for years and suddenly in the past few months it feels like they're failing all over the place. It's starting to make me paranoid, and it seems to suddenly be hitting all model years. Is a software update causing it? Was it always happening and I just didn't see it over the windshield complaints?

 

Considering the US is going through the deep end of winter now and by the sound of it an unusually cold one in some places, it would go some way in explaining the failures caused by the output stress on the electric system?

 

It was never happening. Now it’s happening all the time. It’s super common all over the user groups

Tne only thing that’s changed is software.

Rocket surgery it ain’t.

A nice little earner for LR dealerships. LR central rolls it out. Dealerships get paid for these new repairs and proprietary parts. Total scam going on.

 

Just had a chat with someone in Russia, they are under sanctions and very few cars have newest 4.3 -4.4 update (mostly just imported), yet DC-DC converters are failing.

 

I own a couple of spare "Pump mounted driver" modules for my diesel truck because they were prone to habitually die. Perhaps every L663 owner needs to invest in a spare DC to DC charger and find a way to mount it so when your OEM one dies, it's easy to swap over to the back up while on the side of the road...

 

So, for those of us no longer under warranty what does one of these DC to DC converters cost out of pocket? That even assuming someone could find one.

 

I got the part number LR176473 from Claude. Seems that there's been a few revisions over the years (might be worth looking into whether there's commonality of the failures for a particular version) but it looks like prices for the part run about $900 to $1300 depending on condition.

 

Hopefully never need one, but in the unfortunate event that I have to replace it on my own, is it a DIY project? Is it fed from the hybrid battery? Being 48 volts, that could be a tricky swap out.

 

I did some searching on this and most instructions seem to go about like what they have here

Some mentions of possibly having to code the new converter to the vehicle so maybe GAP tool or similar needed? It does seem like you can de-energize the 48V system without risking your life from the sound of it, but no personal experience (yet).

Price-wise I see a lot of places listing them for the mid $800's. Some over $1000, but I see that spread a lot with JLR parts for some reason.