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Add 1 more vote for just doing pads, unless you are experiencing any pad pulsing. I've not done a Defender yet, but I have a lot of experience with brakes on everything from performance cars to medium duty trucks.
Check rotor thickness, and if you want to get really detailed but not have them turned, you can use a dial indicator to check runout.
If you don't have a problem with pulsing, I wouldn't worry about it--measure thickness and if it's in spec, just change pads.
I would recommend following a pad-bedding or curing process to reduce the risk of your new pads causing an issue with pulsing from thermal transfer of pad material.
Thanks mate. Great info. Seems like I’ll be just doing pads. Start with the rears. Pad bedding. ; I’ll get googling.
Thanks mate. Great info. Seems like I’ll be just doing pads. Start with the rears. Pad bedding. ; I’ll get googling.
Your head will explode... Everybody has different techniques. If you're using an aftermarket pad they might come with specific instructions. I am guessing OEM pads, won't.
The specific technique will vary more with the type of compound/use. The 50-1 hard braking is more for high temp pads (performance car) but it won't hurt on others. I do some 30-10 medium pressure to start out, then hard 50-1 for 10 cycles.
DONT STOP!!! If you have to come to a complete stop, let it coast forward, ideally with no pedal pressure. You don't want a hot pad pressed to one spot on the rotor. That's what causes pad transfer that most people call "warped rotors."
I ordered my new pads and wear sensors front and rear.
Looking at getting the required special tool to reset the pistons in the calipers.
There are plenty of options, from simple single tool to full sets for not a lot more.
I was wondering what tools/kits if any, folks could recommend for this task on the L663. Will the same tool work front and rear.
Shop manual lists a tool for the rears only but I can't get a direct match on google. On the fronts it simply states to use an appropriate tool.
Thanks for any info/help
I have not changed my Defender brakes and don't have a shop manual, so I'm not aware of any specific idiosyncracies of this vehicle. I have a set similar to this:
It will let you service most vehicles with the screw in rear caliper. Fronts should be simple compression thst you could do with a plain old C clamp. Rears typically have to rotate as they are being compressed, as they are threaded to allow the emergency brake to function properly.
The cheaper single tool versions won't work on the rears.
Parts arrived yesterday. Pads, wear sensors and some hardware.
Rears on the left. Front on the right. Huge difference. No wonder the rears wear out first typically on the L663
Big bolts for the front calipers. Single use throwaway due to the high torque on them. Not 100% sure I need them for my brakes but got them as I’m almost sure.
Parts arrived yesterday. Pads, wear sensors and some hardware.
Rears on the left. Front on the right. Huge difference. No wonder the rears wear out first typically on the L663
Big bolts for the front calipers. Single use throwaway due to the high torque on them. Not 100% sure I need them for my brakes but got them as I’m almost sure.
You'll need a 3 foot lever on your breaker bar to get the old bolts off and the new ones tightened to spec.
You'll need a 3 foot lever on your breaker bar to get the old bolts off and the new ones tightened to spec.
It’s 113Nm plus 60 degrees per the workshop manual. Not encountered this plus 60 business before. My torque wrench goes well beyond that. Wheel nuts are 140 Nm if memory serves. That’s no problem whatsoever.
I wonder if there is thread locker on the factory bolts that result in the difficulties you mention.
When changing the rear pads, is it possible to do them if you don’t own a Gap tool? Is there a way to put it in Service Mode to prevent the Electronic Parking Brake from activating. Years ago while performing a pads/rotor change on my Range Rover Evoque, the EPB kicked in and pushed the piston out of the caliper. Was a PITA to get it back in. Would like to avoid any surprises when I decide to change pads and rotors on my ‘22 Defender.
