Defender Windshield
@dj200 - I must have been asleep on this thread. What "sensor calibration" is needed on a windshield? Anyone know what I'm missing here so I can go back to sleep? Thanks.
Just a heads up for anyone planning on using SafeLite for your windshield replacement.
I had the following bad experience with SafeLite (Irvine CA office):
1) hardened glue on the hood (used lots of WD40 to remove)
2) dirty/oily smudges on the headliner (used interior cleaner and toothbrush to remove)
3) cracked lower a-pillar trim piece (replaced by Land Rover dealer - at my cost)
4) windshield leaking water inside vehicle (repaired by Land Rover dealer at my cost - said there was a 1 inch gap with no glue)
I took the Defender back to SafeLite for all of these issues and they just said "sorry but not our problem", and "you can't prove that we caused any of that".
I wrote to SafeLite corporate and they said "thanks for letting us know".
Be careful out there.
I had the following bad experience with SafeLite (Irvine CA office):
1) hardened glue on the hood (used lots of WD40 to remove)
2) dirty/oily smudges on the headliner (used interior cleaner and toothbrush to remove)
3) cracked lower a-pillar trim piece (replaced by Land Rover dealer - at my cost)
4) windshield leaking water inside vehicle (repaired by Land Rover dealer at my cost - said there was a 1 inch gap with no glue)
I took the Defender back to SafeLite for all of these issues and they just said "sorry but not our problem", and "you can't prove that we caused any of that".
I wrote to SafeLite corporate and they said "thanks for letting us know".
Be careful out there.
I've also had bad experiences with Safelite in the past with my FJ Cruiser windshield. In that case they lost the nut that secures the A-pillar exterior trim stud (fell down inside the fender) and so instead of trying to either fish it out or find a new one, they apparently just slapped a big old blob of butyl on the stud and called it a day. Of course I don't find this out for months afterwards when I was running wire for my lightbar... they also broke a bunch of plastic trim piece fasteners and didn't replace them, resulting in at least one body trim piece flying off on the highway.
Never again will I use them.
Never again will I use them.
I finally joined the cracked windshield club after 37k miles on my 2022 p400. Hit a rock on the highway and cracked about 3". Then it grew about 0.5" to 1" daily for the next week while awaiting a new windshield from my dealership. Crack was about 1 foot long when I dropped it off at dealer for replacement.
When I bought my 2025+ Defender 110, I purchased the “Land Rover Windshield Protection” for an additional $2,255. With 10K miles on the clock, I took a rock off of a road construction vehicle that was sitting on a flatbed trailer on New Mexico Hwy 9. Has everyone/anyone had good luck in getting their windshield replaced with this coverage? The dealer closest to me hasn’t returned my calls and e-mail. I understood this to be a warranty “attached” to my VIN.
I have State Farm as my insurance and my policy comes with windsheild replacement coverage - 150 a pop. Regardless of make or model. (I'm sure hypercars etc are excluded.)
I agree - I would only use Safelight on a care like ours to fill rock chips...but I have found that often local smaller windshield companies do far better work.
I agree - I would only use Safelight on a care like ours to fill rock chips...but I have found that often local smaller windshield companies do far better work.
When I bought my 2025+ Defender 110, I purchased the “Land Rover Windshield Protection” for an additional $2,255. With 10K miles on the clock, I took a rock off of a road construction vehicle that was sitting on a flatbed trailer on New Mexico Hwy 9. Has everyone/anyone had good luck in getting their windshield replaced with this coverage? The dealer closest to me hasn’t returned my calls and e-mail. I understood this to be a warranty “attached” to my VIN.
As for getting chips repaired via resin - if you have one of the heated windshields, the chip or the repair may cause the heating element wire embedded in the glass to separate. If you are under warranty, I'd insist on a new windshield rather than a repair.
I had a leaky windshield in my 110 - not a rock chip. When I went to get it replaced, the dealer had it for a week. They brought in a local glass company to do the actual windshield install which kind of baffled me - but whatever, it worked. No more leaky windshield.
As for getting chips repaired via resin - if you have one of the heated windshields, the chip or the repair may cause the heating element wire embedded in the glass to separate. If you are under warranty, I'd insist on a new windshield rather than a repair.
As for getting chips repaired via resin - if you have one of the heated windshields, the chip or the repair may cause the heating element wire embedded in the glass to separate. If you are under warranty, I'd insist on a new windshield rather than a repair.
I am already skeptical of dealers doing what supposedly they are experienced and good at doing, so imagine for stuff that it’s not their area of expertise 🙂. The key question is are they working with the best available local provider or the cheapest…
I have not heard of a dealer doing the work themselves. As you point out, they typically bring a local external glass company to do it, which is a much better solution as it is that company’s specialty and probably do hundreds of installs a month.
I am already skeptical of dealers doing what supposedly they are experienced and good at doing, so imagine for stuff that it’s not their area of expertise 🙂. The key question is are they working with the best available local provider or the cheapest…
I am already skeptical of dealers doing what supposedly they are experienced and good at doing, so imagine for stuff that it’s not their area of expertise 🙂. The key question is are they working with the best available local provider or the cheapest…


