The filter is the same for the 6 and 4 cylinder.
Part #33-5093

I have the p300, so I probably have a bit more engine bay room.

Replacing the air filter was the most pain in the butt I have ever experienced.
You'll need a flat head screwdriver and a T-25 Torx screwdriver.
There are 6 Torx screws, 2 of which are difficult to get to.

Loosen the screws, until they are almost out, you do not have to fully remove the screws.
Loosen the clamp that connects the air box to air hose that goes to the engine.
Disconnect air hose from the air filter box.
Remove the air filter box top.
Replace air filter and follow the instructions in reverse.

 

Just one question...why now?

 

K&N had a sell. I usually do a K&N swap when I get my vehicle, then it is easier on the engine and easier to track.

 

Thanks! Appreciate the details and the reference re: which one to get.

@PaulLR - I doubt it is due to maintenance/miles reason. It's a long way to needing it unless he drives in some dusty conditions. If so, he's done an exceptional job keeping the engine bay clean! Rather, I think he likely did it for whatever incremental HP & mpg gains you would get going from an OEM to K&N filter. In some uses, the K&N's provide significant boosts. Not so sure re: the Defender, but I'm sure over time it's easily worth the cost. It's also likely cleanable, so there is that slight nod to more clean. But I wouldn't think it gets you many Greenpeace Points.

 

Old Series Land Rovers had a brilliant oil bath filter. Downside it was quite large. Every now and then you changed the oil in it and cleaned out everything it washed off the mesh and collected in its sump. Worked super but was a real pain to service. Early paper filters where not too terribly efficient.Everybody in aircraft switched to K&N style filters or oiled foam filters. While they had a slight performance advantage, they suffered in the rain and then directives started rolling out that they would tend to fail as they got older, so we had to throw them away every annual maintenance cycle. Not so much economy gained by that. Modern paper filters work quite well (my present aircraft filter lasts 500 hours!). K&N style still have a performance advantage when new or freshly cleaned, it is typically small. Engines now just breath more efficiently than older mills, emissions and economy drove that. So what is the down side. I did try K&N's for a bit. they have a disadvantage as as they load up their performance (airflow efficiency) degrades logarithmically. Paper filters degrade in a linear fashion. So a K&N style will quickly become less efficient than a paper one over time. For offroad uses, let us think very high fine dust, like the glacial dust in Idaho left over from the glaciers that liked that area so much a few years ago. They left behind a flour like dust, horrible stuff, gets everywhere. So your K&N would quickly become overwhelmed. Yes they can be cleaned, but you need something to clean it in and it is a bit of a mess, coupled with needing the spray to re-coat it. With a paper filter, you simply take it out and bang it against a rock to remove the bulk of the accumulation and rock on. Toss it when you get home. They tend to be way cheaper than the K&N, so not a huge financial dent. I have found over the years up in Black Rock, doing the airport build and the fine gypsum dust there. I keep my last replaced filter, put it in for the duration. I toss it at the end of the event and put in a new one. I do that for both the airplane and the truck. If your in an urban environment, I do not think there is much difference between the two, with the K&N having the edge, provided you keep it clean.

 

My mechanic says the quickest way to ensure you’ll need an early rebuild is to use K&N filters.

 

Thanks for the detailed insights, @Dogpilot . I'm one of those who HATED servicing the Series oil bath filter. But on the other side, the glass covered fuel filter made up for it! Fortunately, I never broke it. I always feared I would when off-roading.

 

You just threw out a perfectly good air filter that had years of useful life left in it.

 

One known caveat concerning the K&N filters is the possibility/likelihood of premature failure of the MAF, mass airflow sensor, which can become fouled from the passage of intake air passing over the oiled surface of the filter and becoming deposited on the sensor, leading to corrupted values being sent to the engine management computer. Numerous reports reflecting testing that I found indicate a very minor increase in horsepower or performance; insignificant amounts that would most likely not even be realized by the driver. A lot of times I believe there is a placebo effect, where someone swaps out the OEM filter for an upgraded one and ‘feels’ an increase in speed or acceleration. Reminds me of a friend who fell for the dealers pitch of putting Nitrogen in her tires and claimed the car rode much smoother after that.

 

I would advise against a K&N filter in a modern vehicle like this. @WTFChuck is right. Techs at the dealer and whatever indy shop you go to will make fun of you for your K&N filter when you drop off your car. There is very little if any HP gain, they fouls sensors (air mass meters, MAF's, etc). And if you've ever oiled one -- It's a huge pain, and air filters are cheap.