Sorry if this is already addressed in other places. This morning I went to get in my 110 and the fob did nothing. Would not unlock the doors with fob buttons or door button. I opened the doors via the app but I could not start the engine without placing the fob under the steering column. Replaced the fob battery just incase it was low and no change. Anyone had similar? Solutions?

 

@ORDPA Make sure the metal clasp is firmly seated on the battery. If there is no pressure on the battery the key will not work. Happened to me about a month ago when I replaced the battery.

 

Happened to me a year ago. I had to hold key to steering column to start car for approximately 3 days and then all of sudden both fobs started working again, no issues since. I mentioned it to service advisor during scheduled visit at dealership but they could not find any issue and needed error code to research.

 

That is very interesting. I read the error codes on mine several times and the only code was a persistent one about leveling here was the info.

B1041-54 (2F) Levelling Control - missing calibration.

However I do not believe it is related after what I eventually found.

After a bunch of searching around on the web I found someone reporting the same issue. The fact that both key fobs stopped working at the same time but could still be used in the emergency way by placing them under the steering column suggested there was an issue with the keyless vehicle module KVM. The info I found made it clear that it most likely was either a short in the wiring for the KVM or a fuse. Either way that is why there is the back up starting system so the vehicle would not be unable to be started. So thank you JLR for having the backup system.

With this info in hand I went to the manual and looked at the info on the three fuse boxes and found there are two fuses in the right rear fuse panel for the KVM. One 20 amp and one 5 amp. The 20 looked fine. The 5 looked fine too however maybe slightly out of shape? Honestly I thought it looked ok and did not have an obvious gap like most fuses do when they are blown. I changed the 5 amp anyway as it did look just a little out of normal as I said and guess what. It is fixed. Not sure why the fuse went but it did now just going I don’t continue to have issues. Maybe this thread will help someone else down the road. Thank you to everyone giving suggestions as well.

 

Interesting. You think maybe the fuse was okay but removing it power cycled the KVM?

I'm having a similar problem with my activity key and will have a look at those fuses. Do you happen to have the specific locations handy?

Edit: nevermind, I found them. 43 = 20A and 57 =5A

 

I just removed and reinserted the slot 57 5A fuse. The fuse was fine but my key still isn't working.

Oddly I have no fuse in slot 43.

 

I am not sure on the fuse. I plan on testing with my volt meter to see. Could also put it back in and see if it repeats the issue. I will let you know later today.

 

Looks like maybe the power cycle was more the answer than the fuse. The 5 amp fuse tests fine with a multimeter. Guess we will see if it happens again at some point.