I see a lot of you on the forum are using the OEMTOOLS 24938 Fluid Extractor ( ) but I did not see anyone using the Lumax LX-1314 Fluid Extractor (https://www.lumax.com/lx-1314). The Lumax has good reviews and a slightly larger capacity (10L vs 9.5L), so I decided to give it a try. My only concern was that the longest tube included with the Lumax was 36.25” vs the 41” included with the OEMTOOLS and that this would not be long enough. Turns out my concern was valid. When I received the Lumax the longest tube was even shorter than the advertised 36.25” only measuring 32”. I foolishly decided to proceed with the oil change and to no surprise I was not able to extract all of the oil. After fiddling with the tube I was only able to extract 6.5 quarts.

I contacted Lumax to see if they had any longer tubes available, but they responded that they did not. I went to a local store that the company I work for uses to make custom tubes and connectors to see if they could make a longer tube, but unfortunately they had never seen the quick connect adaptors the tube uses and were not able to help. I ended up ordered the OEMTOOLS extractor and the 41” tube measured exactly 41” as advertised, which was nice. The OEMTOOLS tube has the exact same quick connect adaptors that the Lumax extractor uses, so everything is interchangeable. I continued to use the Lumax extractor but with the new longer tube and it was able to extract all of the oil out.

Besides the short tube, the Lumax extractor works well and has good build quality. The drain spout is nice and made pouring out the oil easy and mess free.

I also purchased a twist on oil funnel that locks into oil filler neck to make pouring in the new oil a breeze. The one I purchased is the Assenmacher Specialty Tools OFGMRD08 funnel (link). The Defender is not listed on the applicable models list, but it fits perfectly as Land Rover uses the same style for all of their models. There are other similar less expensive funnels on Amazon that will serve the same purpose.

I purchased the Land Rover Castrol Edge Professional EC 0W-20 oil (link) and filter (link) from Land Leaping. The oil was $10.79 a quart and the filter was $17.39. The shipping was $36.63. Even with the shipping it still worked out less expensive than other sites. Land Leaping is located in Portland, OR and I live in New England, so maybe if you are located closer to them the shipping will be less.

Anyway, just wanted to share my experience with the forum and hopefully someone will find it helpful.

Photo of the Lumax Fluid Extractor


Photo of the oil funnel

 

I'm surprised nobody here mentioned using higher-viscosity oil. What are your thoughts on going 0W-30? I live in a hot desert climate.

My thoughts are that 1) My v6 Macan requires 0W-30 and 2) Recent GM recall replacing 0W-20 with 0W-40 clearly points to the fact that manufacturers have gone too far in chasing efficiency/emission targets. They will only change their recommendations once our engines start failing in 5-7 years instead of the normal 15-20.

 

What is the part no. for the bypass valve located within the plastic oil filter housing?

 

First post on the forum. We just bought a 2025 110 V8. I have an 8000# Quick Jack. I’ll always change it the old fashioned way; I don’t care how many bolts there are to remove. I even pour 3/4 qt. fresh oil to “chase” the residue in the pan out, then install a magnetic drain plug. I hate that these Euro vehicles don’t have traditional dipsticks, but it is what it is. I underfill as much as a quart then nurse it up slowly until I put the minimum in that gets a “full” from the vehicle’s measurement system. Oh, and I send the oil off every other change for analysis. **** retentive. The dealer won’t touch this thing unless I have warranty issues. Different strokes…

 

I’m with you on the ‘old fashioned way’. And I also always ‘underfill’ slightly then add a bit at a time after driving a few days. And with a 9 liter capacity, being a 1/2 liter low will cause no harm. My first change it sure seemed like a lot of bolts, but the first time always takes longest, each time after takes less time, especially using a power ratchet. I also found that after removing the first undershield plate, there were a few bolts hidden under the fiber liner. To avoid removing that each time, I used a utility knife to expose the bolt heads. Also, to make future changes even quicker and easier I went with the Fumoto valve and created an access port to the valve, but if one prefers to not go the Fumoto route, the access plate will still allow one to remove the drain plug without removing the undershield plates. Oil changes now are a breeze.


Also have the Quick Jacks and added these casters using zip-ties. Now I can roll the quick Jacks into place with a nudge of my foot instead of dragging them into position.

 

I really like the access plate. This is a good idea. I may have to attack that soon. I’m not even at my first oil change yet, but again - am an overkill guy. It will get changed at 500 miles, then every 3-4K after that. People will say “you are wasting money”. Fine. I won’t go poor - and it is piece of mind for me/theraputic to do it…

What kind of threaded inserts did you install on the skid plate to fasten the diamond plate to? (I can just barely see part of one of them in one of the pictures).

 

Anyone else have the diesel 3.0 and manage to extract all 8.8L from the dipstick? I can only get around 6L after many attempts

 

What remains immensely frustrating to me with all European vehicles I've owned in the past 10 years is the "electronic oil monitoring" via the vehicle - in lieu of a dipstick. They aren't incredibly accurate - and underscore both the owner demographic - and the manufacturers' desire for people not to do their own maintenance. Having changed the oil on my V8 Defender-I'm getting varying measurements from one day to the next (only one "bar/gradient" different, but still)... This is silliness. At least give me a dipstick in addition to your cutesy, "apartment dweller" electronic measuring method. This - and auto stop/start - are going to drive me to drink - more than I do already.

Update:
I just checked the oil this evening (for the third evening in a row after the oil and filter change). The level went back up one mark with no oil added. This completely supports my assertion above. Silliness. How is this better than a manual dipstick for accuracy? Ray Charles (RIP) could see that it isn't. Euros...

Second update:
I checked it Friday; it said the oil level was full. Checked it today (one week exactly from the oil & filter change) after my wife took a 50 mile round trip. It shows one bar below full; it didn't burn that with 1150 miles on it. It is just flat inaccurate. This tool/monitor, whatever you want to call it - is for people who do not raise the hood. The Euros have adjusted these products to the lowest common denominator; this is generally city dwellers who don't do any work on their vehicles but fill them with gas.