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We just took delivery of both our Defender 130 P400 and our Airstream International 23FB. We relocated the electric trailer jack behind the propane cover using a Camco side-mount frame bracket. That solved the problem of the jack hitting the spare tire cover moving forwards or backwards, but found the propane tank cover unexpectedly put a nice gouge in the spare tire cover during our first turn.
We were forced to remove the spare to get the airstream home. Even with the spare removed, the rear recovery eyelets can contact the propane cover during tight turns while moving forward. It takes a turn a full-lock to do so, but still…
Have you (or anyone) figured out how to tow a travel trailer with the spare in-place without the trailer contacting the vehicle? A hitch extension most likely isn’t rated for the weight. Did LR expect everyone to haul around a spare on the roof?
The hitch we’re using is about 10.5” pin to ball.
Originally Posted by POPTOPP
We tow a 25 GT FBT quite comfortably with our 110 P400. The limiting factor is tongue weight which we addressed by adding a structural support to the hitch. There is quite a bit of misinformation about tongue weights, WD hitches and unibody construction, payload limitations, etc. We use an Eaz-Lift WD with 1000lb torsion bars. I suggest you think about the style of camping you plan to do. If you carry heavy - bbq grills, fire pits, outdoor carpets and furniture, large family & big dogs, lots of recreation gear and kitchen appliances, then the Defender may not be the best vehicle. We travel light and have empty storage cabinets in the trailer, 200 lbs of available payload in the Defender and 1200 lbs of available payload in the trailer and are right around the spec for tongue weight. How do I know? Because I've been weighed fully loaded at a CAT scale both hitched and unhitched. In fact, we have had to dial back the bias on our brake controller to keep the trailer acting like a parachute. Just came back from a trip in WV and had no problems with the grades. You will have to move your spare to the roof since it can interfere on a tighter turn. We did have a 3rd party install solar and ended up installing lithium batteries in a side compartment leaving the front battery compartment empty. That may have helped with the tongue weight.
I have a 22FB (single axel) that we tow with our P400. I was using an extended hitch to avoid the spare tire but it caused white knock action when being passed on the freeway by 18 wheelers. So, we move the spare to the roof. I figure we'll take it down once fall hits and we winterize the trailer. For now, it's great. We really wanted to upgrade to the 25ft Airstream, but in the end, I didn't want to give up the Defender. We will likely go 23ft when we upgrade. Slightly longer, slightly wider.
To anyone struggling to tow a travel trailer without some Rube Goldberg device, and considering lighting your Defender on fire, this post is for you.
Vehicle: 2023 Defender 130
Trailer: 2023 Airstream International 23FB
Hitch: Blue Ox TracPro, 800lb bars
Hitch Note: Purchase the Blue Ox 12 inch, 7 hole shank. This is the secret sauce.
With this setup there is no need to remove the spare. The vehicle can make sharp turns forward and backwards without impacting the trailer in 99% of all conditions.
Thanks for the link to the photos. Hopefully I can install it as cleanly as y'all did.
