105,000 miles in the manual. ZF suggest 80,000 miles or earlier depending on use profile. A GAP IID tool is used to measure temperature.




Special tool advised by LR for the fill plug is not useful.



Be sure to shake the ATF



The instruction to remove 350ml after the second fill. Only for. 3L petrol
.



The awkward bolts.



Basic tools.



Cleaned mating surfaces.



new pan installed 10Nm or 4Nm plus 45 degrees



Level pan



Car at an angle. 5 degrees maybe.


GAP tool for temperature



A hand pump for wide mouth container

The instructions include some odd steps that I worked around.

A: The removal of the transmission cross-member and use of a transmission jack. This makes the process incredibly complicated and is easily avoided by using a low profile Torx 40 to access the affected 3 bolts

B: A special tool for the fill plug. This was not needed and makes process more difficult. Use a regular hex socket for the Fill plug.

C: The removal of 350ml after getting the correct fill level. This is done to allow for angled transmission. Get the pan level, not the car to avoid this step. Only applicable to 3L petrol.

A new pan and ZF AFT fluid were purchased from FCP Euro. This is the OEM part but at regular pricing. About $250

The steps.

1: Remove the armor
2: Warm the transmission up 30-50C. Turn off engine
3: Open fill plug with a breaker bar and hex socket
4: Loosen the hard to reach pan bolts.
5: Open drain plug and drain transmission.
6: Remove the 13 pan bolts and pop off the pan.
7: Clean the mating surface of the transmission and dab some ATF on the pan-gasket.
8:Install pan. 10Nm on the bolts following the prescribed criss -cross pattern.
9: Fill the transmission with ATF. SHAkE THE BOTTLES.
10: Close the old fill plug
11: Start engine, work through the gears R, D S1 S2 P, 2000rpm for 30 seconds and get the transmission to 30-50C. LEAVE ENGINE RUNNING
12: Remove old fill plug and refill transmission till it’s full again.
13: Insert new fill plug. Torque it down 35 Nm
14: Test drive
15: Check for any leaks
16: Reinstall armor.
17: Beer.

 

A lesson learned 40+ years ago, always open the fill plug first and all succesful maintence ends with Beer.

 

100%

In this instance I loosened the fill plug and the 3 awkwardly positioned bolts for the pan. I wanted to make sure I wasn't left paddling up a creek. The fill plug is supposedly 35Nn. I suspect it gets a tighter fitting at factory because I had to use a breaker bar. The LR special tool was as useful as t!ts on a bull.

Beer or bourbon. Both are compatible.

 

Hi Gavin, thanks so much for your maintenance tutorials.
I've reached 90,000 km and would also like to replace the oil and filter on my 8HP76 transmission.
I looked up the procedure on Topix. I just have one question. From your description, going from step 11 to step 12, I think the engine needs to be turned off. Am I wrong?
Thanks again for everything.
Marco

 

No worries Marco. glad they're of some use to the DIY'er

You leave the engine running at this stage. You need to work quickly. Working through the gears. Revving to 2000 rpm and getting transmission to temp. Stick it back in park. Leave it running. Get underneath, pop out old fill plug, refill with engine running. Insert new fill plug and torque it down to spec. Now you're able to turn off engine.

FCP Euro have a good video of the process. I watched it a couple of times to get the sequence down in my mind.

 

Perfect,
thanks again for your help.

 

No worries. The temperature of the oil rises pretty quickly. You don't want to hang about too much. This is why that final step LR have for the P400 is very impractical. Removing 350ml at that stage is just not going to be easy to do accurately. I think leveling the pan is a much more practical approach.