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I know the diagrams for recommended jack points (pinch welds), but am exploring other safe options. I need to jack one wheel at a time and then place jack stand. Please forgive my ignorance.
I have taken photos and labeled them, please let me know which are safe jack points.
Sorry they are a bit out of order.
Point B- rear wheel Point C- front wheel, next to pinch weld Front wheel points Front wheel Front wheel
Point A and Point B- rear wheel
Last edited by honolulugator; Jun 1, 2025 at 09:54 AM.
Yeah! DEFINITELY not D. I would even add A to the potential nope list. Most of the others I would likely try with a floor jack. Perhaps not with a bottle jack on the first attempt. I don't know why, maybe because mine has a bigger lift surface.
My only (strong) advice, is to use whichever of those points you decide best. Regardless, as soon as I had it lifted, I would slide in a couple jack stands in there. One at the "proper" lift location and another at any letter you don't use. Then I would take the wheel off with reckless abandon. Ymmv. Oh, and if not obvious, I always chock an unlifted wheel. Likely not necessary, but I'm an old school shadetree mechanic.
EDIT: Just reread your OP, you're already way ahead of me re: the Jack stand. Leaving the original reply in case someone else misses that.
Am going to use my buddy's off road floor jack to lift via standard pinch welds. I see recommendations here for adapters from ECS… but they are a set of 4, I only need one. Any recommendations for a quality hockey puck adapter that is known to fit? I’m Leary of just buying a random one off Amazon.
F/u comment... pretty much all of the rubber hockey pucks on Amazon look the same. Just get any one of these? The aluminum style doesn't quite have a wide enough groove for the pinch weld. Rubber doesn't measure wide enough either, but I assume it flexes open a bit under the weight of the lift.
Last edited by honolulugator; Jun 3, 2025 at 11:38 AM.
Unfortunately the Defender jacking point flares (wider where it connects to the vehicle), and this attachment has a vertical slot. The weight of the car forced the angled jack point into the slot and they got stuck together. I had to force the jack out from under the vehicle and then hit the attachment with a hammer to knock it off.
A little work with a grinder in my garage and the attachment had an angle to match the jack point.
Of course, once I put rock sliders on, the jack point was covered anyway.
I have been using them for YEARS under my cars to cushion between floor jacks and the car. Every time.
Recently I lifted my 944 Turbo, as I always do, with a floor jack, with a hockey puck I’d had for years sitting on top of the floor jack.
The hockey puck crumbled to bits. It was not an unsafe situation as it just sort of smooshed down but I could imagine a scenario where it might get problematic. This hockey puck had been in my garage for maybe ... 10 years ... never exposed to UV light or chemicals I have been aware of. and was part of a box of 10 hockey pucks I’ve had for this purpose for ... 10 years.
So, that can happen. Use new hockey pucks. That would be my advice. I threw the box out.
My bigger issue is finding a jack with enough lift range to deal with the lifting height. My hydraulic floor jack with saddle height extender (that was excellent with my LR4 and Discovery) doesn't get close on the Defender. Even my 20ton bottle jack with adjustable seat height gets just enough lift for the front but struggles at the rear
Anyone found a decent home use jack that has good height and feels stable? I'm just jacking on the pinch weld points and swapping wheels (eg summer to winter tires). So I do it often enough that I'd like a better solution!
Safe jack/jack stand points…
