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Speaker and Amp Upgrade?

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  #11  
Old 02-10-2023 | 07:35 AM
mikelr's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Delco
Kind of doing this because I also was in pro car audio back in 1990’s here in OC, California and want to see how well I can preserve the stock look but have it sound better with changing everything back to the Phoenix Gold era . Was thinking to try to experiment with the integration because of all the software that runs for the system.
I have found this line level converter from NVX to play nice with the factory amp, I'm running one of these two channel converters for the added sub and a four channel model for the woofers in the doors...
Amazon Amazon


I have been really impressed with this Morel KW-1 6" woofer, they make a great replacement for the doors, a simple ring adaptor will have to be made to install..
https://www.parts-express.com/Morel-...016?quantity=1

I'm running these Dayton Audio extended range subs in the rear doors but there was some mods I had to make to the door stucture and limit the window regulator movement to get these to fit. For the sound quality I think the Morel would be just as good...
https://www.parts-express.com/Epique...102?quantity=1

 
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2023 | 10:14 AM
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i have also upgraded the full audio system with Morel 3 ways in the front and Coaxials in the rears. 2 ten inch subs in the rear and air in the open cavity. System looks stock beside the custom A pillar mods and tweet pods.

question about your build. sounds you went to great lengths but didn’t see any mention of a dsp. so your speakers are passive then?

for those building a high end system you really want to bypass the factory amp and dsp with a true digital source directly to a new dsp.

i have both options of playing direct or going through factory dsp. it’s a night and day difference






Originally Posted by mikelr
I have upgraded my 700w Meridian system. I first started by installing a custom subwoofer box in the space below the rear cargo lid, two down firing 10" subs in a sealed enclosure. This is powered by a 800w monoblock amp. I pulled the signal from the factory amp subwoofer output that is located behind the rear left panel in the back. I just tapped the signal and fed it through a line level converter so the factory 6x9 sub up front is still in the mix. I played around with changing out the factory door speakers that although sound pretty good are paper cone and seems to be pretty poor quality with other direct fit speakers from the JLR lineup. There was a slight increase in sound quality but I wanted more. I eventually changed out all the door woofers to aftermarket speakers from Merrel and Dayton audio and added a 250x4 channel amp to drive the higher power speakers. The front door mids were swapped out for a pair of Tang Band drivers and all the tweeters were updated to titanium dome units from higher end JLR models. The final mod was to add another 100x4 channel amp to boost the mids/highs up front to improve the sound stage and keep up with the rest of the system volume wise. The 1000w amp that drives the door woofers is fed from another line level converter but the 400w four channel that drives the front mids/highs accepts high level inputs. The rest of the system (front center channel and rear mids) are still driven purely off the factory amp. The results of these mods are impressive, I used to be into car audio back in the 90's, this is the first stock audio system I have modified in a long time. I am happy I did, best sounding sound system I have ever had!
If someone says you can't add on to the factory amp using line level converters because the sound quality will suck, don't believe them.
 
  #13  
Old 02-10-2023 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Ehloo
i have also upgraded the full audio system with Morel 3 ways in the front and Coaxials in the rears. 2 ten inch subs in the rear and air in the open cavity. System looks stock beside the custom A pillar mods and tweet pods.

question about your build. sounds you went to great lengths but didn’t see any mention of a dsp. so your speakers are passive then?

for those building a high end system you really want to bypass the factory amp and dsp with a true digital source directly to a new dsp.

i have both options of playing direct or going through factory dsp. it’s a night and day difference
Besides adding the sub I just amplified the factory amp outputs to better speakers. I did not want to get into running a DSP, wanted to keep it simple. I'm very happy with the results.
 
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2023 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mikelr
I have upgraded my 700w Meridian system. I first started by installing a custom subwoofer box in the space below the rear cargo lid, two down firing 10" subs in a sealed enclosure. This is powered by a 800w monoblock amp. I pulled the signal from the factory amp subwoofer output that is located behind the rear left panel in the back. I just tapped the signal and fed it through a line level converter so the factory 6x9 sub up front is still in the mix. I played around with changing out the factory door speakers that although sound pretty good are paper cone and seems to be pretty poor quality with other direct fit speakers from the JLR lineup. There was a slight increase in sound quality but I wanted more. I eventually changed out all the door woofers to aftermarket speakers from Merrel and Dayton audio and added a 250x4 channel amp to drive the higher power speakers. The front door mids were swapped out for a pair of Tang Band drivers and all the tweeters were updated to titanium dome units from higher end JLR models. The final mod was to add another 100x4 channel amp to boost the mids/highs up front to improve the sound stage and keep up with the rest of the system volume wise. The 1000w amp that drives the door woofers is fed from another line level converter but the 400w four channel that drives the front mids/highs accepts high level inputs. The rest of the system (front center channel and rear mids) are still driven purely off the factory amp. The results of these mods are impressive, I used to be into car audio back in the 90's, this is the first stock audio system I have modified in a long time. I am happy I did, best sounding sound system I have ever had!
If someone says you can't add on to the factory amp using line level converters because the sound quality will suck, don't believe them.
Hello I am looking to do the same only I want to just start with a amp and subwoofer in the load space area.. Can you tell me exactly what wires that you tapped into coming out of the factory amp? I looked under the driver seat and found the factory sub but I can not tell which wires to use for the low level (speaker wires). It would be easier just to tap off of the wires coming out of the amp right?
 
  #15  
Old 03-01-2023 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fmg
Hello I am looking to do the same only I want to just start with a amp and subwoofer in the load space area.. Can you tell me exactly what wires that you tapped into coming out of the factory amp? I looked under the driver seat and found the factory sub but I can not tell which wires to use for the low level (speaker wires). It would be easier just to tap off of the wires coming out of the amp right?

 
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  #16  
Old 03-01-2023 | 04:07 PM
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That sounds awesome - pun intended.

​​​​​​I am reading that you augmented with two more amps. Where did you find a good spot to put them? I have been looking at Focal speakers, both 6.5" and 4" - looks pretty straight forward, depending on just how much you want to spend. The little soft dome is hard to find specifics for, but it looks like either a 3/4" or 1" unit?

I will probably drop one of the flat 12" subs in the back.
 
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2023 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Ratledge
That sounds awesome - pun intended.

​​​​​​I am reading that you augmented with two more amps. Where did you find a good spot to put them? I have been looking at Focal speakers, both 6.5" and 4" - looks pretty straight forward, depending on just how much you want to spend. The little soft dome is hard to find specifics for, but it looks like either a 3/4" or 1" unit?

I will probably drop one of the flat 12" subs in the back.
So did you have to remove the rear trim panel on the left side of the trunk or does the smaller panel pop off to access the amp wires? Or is it best to take the drivers seat out and access the sub wires there? I appreciate any input here.
 
  #18  
Old 03-01-2023 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fmg
So did you have to remove the rear trim panel on the left side of the trunk or does the smaller panel pop off to access the amp wires? Or is it best to take the drivers seat out and access the sub wires there? I appreciate any input here.
I haven't done it yet, but for a woofer in the trunk it only makes sense to use the access behind the left panel in the trunk.
 

Last edited by Ratledge; 03-02-2023 at 03:10 AM.
  #19  
Old 03-02-2023 | 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by fmg
So did you have to remove the rear trim panel on the left side of the trunk or does the smaller panel pop off to access the amp wires? Or is it best to take the drivers seat out and access the sub wires there? I appreciate any input here.
Initially I had to remove the entire left rear panel to access the factory amp, the small access panel is not removable even know it looks it. The panel is plastic welded in several spots around it's perimeter. Second time I was in there and had to remove the large panel for access I ground down the plasic welds and added a couple of revnuts to the panel in the upper corners to make it removable for future access. The bottom of the small panel has a flange that holds it. I will try and snap a couple pics today of where I mounted the amplifier gear.
 
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2023 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Ratledge
That sounds awesome - pun intended.

​​​​​​I am reading that you augmented with two more amps. Where did you find a good spot to put them? I have been looking at Focal speakers, both 6.5" and 4" - looks pretty straight forward, depending on just how much you want to spend. The little soft dome is hard to find specifics for, but it looks like either a 3/4" or 1" unit?

I will probably drop one of the flat 12" subs in the back.
I'm running 3 additional amplifiers, the largest is mounted at the base of the rear seats (very back of the underfloor area), this powers the four door woofers.



The second is monoblock for the subbox mounted at the rear of the underfloor area,




The last is a small four channel that powers the mids and highs in the front doors, I mounted this behind the left side panel which I modified to be removable. Notice I use only China's Finest components! BTW, all required some sort of custom bracket/plate to be fab'd up to mount...



 
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