Speaker and Amp Upgrade?
#31
are those subs?
i am running Morel Virtus Nanos in my rears also for rear fill.
Morel is one the best sounding speakers out there. you can listen at high volumes without it hurting your ears.
if anyone is thinking of just replacing speakers and using factory amp- heads up the factory speakers are 2 ohm. that’s pretty rare and going to a 4 ohm will most likely sound worse.
couple companies offer 2 ohm but it’s super limited
i am running Morel Virtus Nanos in my rears also for rear fill.
Morel is one the best sounding speakers out there. you can listen at high volumes without it hurting your ears.
if anyone is thinking of just replacing speakers and using factory amp- heads up the factory speakers are 2 ohm. that’s pretty rare and going to a 4 ohm will most likely sound worse.
couple companies offer 2 ohm but it’s super limited
#32
are those subs?
i am running Morel Virtus Nanos in my rears also for rear fill.
Morel is one the best sounding speakers out there. you can listen at high volumes without it hurting your ears.
if anyone is thinking of just replacing speakers and using factory amp- heads up the factory speakers are 2 ohm. that’s pretty rare and going to a 4 ohm will most likely sound worse.
couple companies offer 2 ohm but it’s super limited
i am running Morel Virtus Nanos in my rears also for rear fill.
Morel is one the best sounding speakers out there. you can listen at high volumes without it hurting your ears.
if anyone is thinking of just replacing speakers and using factory amp- heads up the factory speakers are 2 ohm. that’s pretty rare and going to a 4 ohm will most likely sound worse.
couple companies offer 2 ohm but it’s super limited
Yes they are subs and the 4ohm Morel 6.5 sound great with the factory amp but then again I'm old and drive a British truck. Whata I know..
#33
So I tapped into the 4 wires going to the stock sub under the drivers seat. When I wired the active sub I used all 4 wires, and for some reason, the only way it sounded correct was when the fader control was towards the left and rear. When I wen to center it was not correct. I removed 2 of the wires and boom it worked correctly. I have no Idea why but only 2 of the 4 wires were needed.
The following users liked this post:
ficklma1 (03-14-2023)
#34
After doing all of this I am noticing a grumble in the subwoofer when I idle and then press the accelerator. I have moved the ground wire to a new location by itself thinking it was that. There was an empty ground pin under the Styrofoam insert in the load space area. I also randomly hear a loud pulse sound (deep base) during a song. I have separated the power and ground and speaker wires so I am at a loss of where this rumble is coming from.
#35
How are you processing the signal? Are you using an amp with high level inputs or are you using a line level converter? My sub was humming and emitting stange noises (once it would hum loud when I opened the drivers door). This was very early on in the day or two following the install. At some point a few days later when I had time to investigate, I had removed power from the line level converter (which basically has constant 12VDC) and once reconnected the issue was gone and has never returned. Like it needed a reboot..
#36
I am also looking to upgrade the sound of the stock Meridian system in my D90. I want to keep it as simple as possible and maintain the factory Pivi Pro interface.
Anyone have a good recommendation for a car stereo installer in either Westchester County, NY or near Greenwich, CT? I’m not exactly sure what types of upgrades I will need and I’d like to find a shop that has already modified a new Defender.
Thanks!
Anyone have a good recommendation for a car stereo installer in either Westchester County, NY or near Greenwich, CT? I’m not exactly sure what types of upgrades I will need and I’d like to find a shop that has already modified a new Defender.
Thanks!
#37
I am using a Audison active subwoofer. I am using high level inputs (using 2 of the wires from the sub under the seat). It has a volume control as well and it seems to do it more when I have the volume louder almost like when a microphone gets too close to a speaker. It is really strange.
#38
you are amplifying the engine noise. the oem sub plumbs fake engine noise into the cabin. adding a high powered sub makes it really loud.
only way to get rid of it is to code it out. It’s the same issue with the active noise cancelation. Mic pics up road cabin noise and sends a signal to cancel the frequency
usually there is a separate module you can just unplug but wit the defender it’s built into the meridian dsp
only way to get rid of it is to code it out. It’s the same issue with the active noise cancelation. Mic pics up road cabin noise and sends a signal to cancel the frequency
usually there is a separate module you can just unplug but wit the defender it’s built into the meridian dsp
I am using a Audison active subwoofer. I am using high level inputs (using 2 of the wires from the sub under the seat). It has a volume control as well and it seems to do it more when I have the volume louder almost like when a microphone gets too close to a speaker. It is really strange.
The following users liked this post:
ficklma1 (03-20-2023)
#39
you are amplifying the engine noise. the oem sub plumbs fake engine noise into the cabin. adding a high powered sub makes it really loud.
only way to get rid of it is to code it out. It’s the same issue with the active noise cancelation. Mic pics up road cabin noise and sends a signal to cancel the frequency
usually there is a separate module you can just unplug but wit the defender it’s built into the meridian dsp
only way to get rid of it is to code it out. It’s the same issue with the active noise cancelation. Mic pics up road cabin noise and sends a signal to cancel the frequency
usually there is a separate module you can just unplug but wit the defender it’s built into the meridian dsp
#40
- MultiCAN-683 EngineNoiseCancel - Not Supported