When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm running 3 additional amplifiers, the largest is mounted at the base of the rear seats (very back of the underfloor area), this powers the four door woofers.
The second is monoblock for the subbox mounted at the rear of the underfloor area,
The last is a small four channel that powers the mids and highs in the front doors, I mounted this behind the left side panel which I modified to be removable. Notice I use only China's Finest components! BTW, all required some sort of custom bracket/plate to be fab'd up to mount...
Nice work! That looks like a wiring job for the experienced. One last stupid question. I have the base system (6 speakers and subwoofer) Based on that I probably have the smallest factory amp. I see your schematic of the amp wires but how do I know which wires are for the factory subwoofer. I peeked under my driver's seat and saw that there are 4 wires going into the stock subwoofer.
This is a really interesting thread, you guys would not want to own the 90 in Commercial spec because it has, count them, four speakers in total
Which reminds me, how does JLR do the unused speaker locations? If you have 10 speakers, is it easy to add the other four? (locations, since I imagine that you will need grills, etc)
Otherwise mine will have 2 more amps, because the Rockville slim sub has its own 350 watt amp, supposedly 1400 "peak power". Adding a decent 4-channel amp for the four 6.5" door speakers makes most sense especially since the built-in amp should drive the tweeters and mids - no problem. They don't take much power as opposed to the larger speakers.
Nice work! That looks like a wiring job for the experienced. One last stupid question. I have the base system (6 speakers and subwoofer) Based on that I probably have the smallest factory amp. I see your schematic of the amp wires but how do I know which wires are for the factory subwoofer. I peeked under my driver's seat and saw that there are 4 wires going into the stock subwoofer.
From your pic it seems my diagram provided holds true, those 4 wires match the wiring schematic color codes... BTW, I just tapped the factory wires for signal for my add on sub/amp, I let the factory amp continue to push the factory sub.
Last edited by mikelr; 03-02-2023 at 09:08 AM.
Reason: additional info..
l would like to fit the rear speakers because the grilles are still visible behind the seats and it would be good as "fill in" sound
Also the sub under the seat, but l imagine it's not an easy task because the wiring harness is unlikely to be present for a start, then the vehicle will need programming to tell it there are rear speakers and/or a sub.
Fortunately despite only having four speakers the sound is good enough for general day to day listening. Which is good news because l spend all day every day in and out of the vehicle.
this is the only part of my car that I am disappointed in- and i have the upgraded meridian option. It's terrible compared to the upgraded B&O option in my rs6 avant.. From the looks of it, an upgrade is not for the faint of heart. Great work by you guys!
Did you use all four wires? I assume the 4 wires means it is a dual voice coil subwoofer. I ordered an Audison active-subwoofer and it has speaker inputs for L&R so I guess I just use all four and just make sure that the +- are in the correct position?
Also how much of a PITA is it to remove the rear quarter panel to access the amp or would it be better to just take out the front seat and access the wires at the current subwoofer. I am a bit nervous to do either one lol.
Did you use all four wires? I assume the 4 wires means it is a dual voice coil subwoofer. I ordered an Audison active-subwoofer and it has speaker inputs for L&R so I guess I just use all four and just make sure that the +- are in the correct position?
Also how much of a PITA is it to remove the rear quarter panel to access the amp or would it be better to just take out the front seat and access the wires at the current subwoofer. I am a bit nervous to do either one lol.
Tapped each pair for a left/right signal. It would arguably be easier to remove the seat to gain access to the subwoofer signal but you would still have to run the wires back to your powered sub which I assume you will mount in the back. Besides you may want to get familiar with removing those rear panels as you will probably be going back in there when you make your next incremental upgrade. You may even want to make the small access panal removable as i did.
03-02-2023 | 08:43 AM
BTW, all required some sort of custom bracket/plate to be fab'd up to mount...
