Tow hitch extension suggestion
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 193
Likes: 66
From: Tacoma Wa
In my LR3
1- For many yrs I have had an X-jack in the sub-floor but never needed it. They are inflated by your exhaust pipe and can be put under axles or control arms.
2-I have had with me on some trips, an aluminum 3 ton but the key is to also have rubber blocking like you may have seen at a tire shop. These provide grip and shape deformation to allow the metal lift pad to be used under a control arm for example. Also having extra blocking can help with getting the height needed in weird terrain situations.
3-I have had a high-lift INSIDE lying crosswise down in the floor behind the 2nd row. Why there, as opposed to outside in the elements, usually with that heavy weight mounted up high ...? Seems obvious.
4-you can gain height for wheel changes by VERY simple methods such as driving onto a ramp while in highest suspension extension, place tight blocking under the control arm, lower suspension, this causes the control arms to invert and the tire pulls up/away from the ramp.
5-high lift used to raise wheel itself is wonderful if you have the fender clearance because you only lift a few inches, block control arm, remove jack, swap wheels, reverse process.
6- I ALWAYS place the wheel under the sliders while working. I had to re-fit an air line to the top of the air strut one time along the trail. This requires strut removal. Took me about an hour.
The rubber blocking I mentioned are incredibly useful and are used every time I swap winter to summer wheels or any other floor jack work. For wheel swap I lift under the contrrol arm every time right behind the tire which means my jack range of movement is only a few inches to instantly lift the tire off the ground.
1- For many yrs I have had an X-jack in the sub-floor but never needed it. They are inflated by your exhaust pipe and can be put under axles or control arms.
2-I have had with me on some trips, an aluminum 3 ton but the key is to also have rubber blocking like you may have seen at a tire shop. These provide grip and shape deformation to allow the metal lift pad to be used under a control arm for example. Also having extra blocking can help with getting the height needed in weird terrain situations.
3-I have had a high-lift INSIDE lying crosswise down in the floor behind the 2nd row. Why there, as opposed to outside in the elements, usually with that heavy weight mounted up high ...? Seems obvious.
4-you can gain height for wheel changes by VERY simple methods such as driving onto a ramp while in highest suspension extension, place tight blocking under the control arm, lower suspension, this causes the control arms to invert and the tire pulls up/away from the ramp.
5-high lift used to raise wheel itself is wonderful if you have the fender clearance because you only lift a few inches, block control arm, remove jack, swap wheels, reverse process.
6- I ALWAYS place the wheel under the sliders while working. I had to re-fit an air line to the top of the air strut one time along the trail. This requires strut removal. Took me about an hour.
The rubber blocking I mentioned are incredibly useful and are used every time I swap winter to summer wheels or any other floor jack work. For wheel swap I lift under the contrrol arm every time right behind the tire which means my jack range of movement is only a few inches to instantly lift the tire off the ground.
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cleveburgian
2020 Defender
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May 13, 2023 05:57 PM