One thing that has been important to do in my other cars is to store the key at least 20 feet from the car itself. There is constant communication between the key and the car causing battery drainage; I got battery critically low warnings when my SL was in for PPF and ceramic coating, and even when it was having a software update done at the MB dealer. After awhile, in situations like that you come to expect it and the car starts up just fine.

However, this is extrapolating other cars to the Defender. I won't have mine for several months so my comments may in fact be useless.

 

same- that is from the doors being open while the PPF was being put on... mine's not a daily and i havent had this issue at all since the ppf went on..

 

Can’t y’all just start the car remotely every few days?

 

I personally don't have experience w this issue w/ a RR sport, and my 110 is coming next month. My friend had a problem w/ battery drain on his RR because he doesn't drive it much, and one comment from his local service dept manager was the recommendation of locking his car even when it's in the garage because in that condition all but the minimum computer-related power drains are put to sleep. I wouldn't expect defenders to be much different

 

Keeping the Defender locked while in the garage allows for system updates to run. Also, I bought the battery charger to top off the battery after it arrived from port due to how long it could have been sitting or while in transit.

 

So, a question... my concern is when I'm out overlanding. Ran into the "battery low, please start engine" many times when we were in Death Valley/Panamint Valley last spring. 'Yep, it's in the back of the Defender....'
So, rather than a battery tender, I just carry a - now I understand if the vehicle is going to be left for an extended period of time (and I'm talking about months) then I would use a tender.

But I value your comments. Let me know

 

Personally, I use the CTEK charger. This is the very same one Land Rover sells, with their label on it, but without the associated wallet drain.

I also for when in the field have this excellent very flexible, foldable 30 watt Powerfilm Solar Panel. I place it in the windshield and then place the regular windshield panel thing that came with the Defender behind that to hold it in place. It is in turn coupled to the OBD plug I adapted to trickle charge from and plug it into the OBD port under the Driver's side. It is always hot, so it can be trickle charged from there. Yes the Defender draws around 10 amps for 10 minutes when you open the door. So when in the field for days this can become an issue. Too bad there is no "Camping Mode" selection from the many menus. So kind of why I resurrected this panel and pressed it into this service. I have been through two batteries so far in a year. The latest one seems healthy enough. Also if you use ECO mode a lot, it does not put out full charging, or so it seems.

 

I have a question - - with my P300 I could have a battery tender attached with the hood open and be able to lock the doors. Now I’ve traded for a V8 and this truck will not allow me to lock the doors with the hood open. Does anyone know of a work around, or maybe where the sensor for the hood is located? I have to leave it for a few weeks and need the battery tender, but would like to lock it also. Thanks for any help.

 

Wow that's not good, l've left mine a week with no issues but it's only the Commercial D250

l would hope that it could be left in an airport parking for two weeks and still start when you return from your vacation.

 

Kicking an old thread, sorry.

For those that have the trickle charger connected under the hood, have you seen any issues? Am thinking of doing the same, but there was comment about other vehicles.
For those that have it directly connected, how do you get power to it? As in with windows and doors closed and locked, where do you run the cables?

Thanks!