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Having just had my battery replaced, and reading all these informative posts about trickle chargers and the various ways to connect, yours is the best engineered version. Love the look. Where did you get the inlet mounted on the bumper cover, and is it compatible with the CTEK?
I installed the fused harness to terminals under the hood. Drilled a hole and mounted in the skirt. It is a SAE/Battery Tender plug, not CTEC compatible.
Since CTEK makes an adapter which allows you to use the ‘cigarette lighter’ inlet, it would seem that any linkup to wiring that leads to the battery is ‘common’ to the electrical system I was wondering if I could make my linkup at the rear fuse panel by attaching the ring eyelets to the main power feed at the rear fuse panel. Then, since I back my vehicle up to my garage door, I could use one of the bumper mounted plugs, mounted on the rear bumper cover,and an adapter to the CTEK without using extension cords all the way to the front of the vehicle, like gurka01, or r-dubb. Welcome any feedback to this approach.
Since CTEK makes an adapter which allows you to use the ‘cigarette lighter’ inlet, it would seem that any linkup to wiring that leads to the battery is ‘common’ to the electrical system I was wondering if I could make my linkup at the rear fuse panel by attaching the ring eyelets to the main power feed at the rear fuse panel. Then, since I back my vehicle up to my garage door, I could use one of the bumper mounted plugs, mounted on the rear bumper cover,and an adapter to the CTEK without using extension cords all the way to the front of the vehicle, like gurka01, or r-dubb. Welcome any feedback to this approach.
I have an inverter wired into my rear fuse panel using a spade lead that plugs into the always hot side of an unused relay socket. I don’t think there is an easily accessible hot post available on the front side of the fuse panel. My other concern would be that you are proposing to tap the regulated side of the power supply, whereas the under hood terminals go straight to the battery.
I have an inverter wired into my rear fuse panel using a spade lead that plugs into the always hot side of an unused relay socket. I don’t think there is an easily accessible hot post available on the front side of the fuse panel. My other concern would be that you are proposing to tap the regulated side of the power supply, whereas the under hood terminals go straight to the battery.
Got it. Your suggestion is logical. The shortest path is a direct connection to the battery terminals. I’ll keep researching the best solution for my application.
Got the error lamp on the CTEK trickle charger last week, disconnected and did a retry a few days later. Same fault apply
According the manual of the charger, step 5 : cannot keep charge and may need to be replaced.
This battery is from build date of the car 12/11 2020 , so almost 3 years old . Went to my JLR dealer for checking but no time.
Made an appointment for 11/29 they need to do a whole test cycle with an approved Battery testing device according JLR to make a warranty claim, will take 45 minutes.
Still under warranty. Let's see if I can manage to keep it going untill my appointment.
JLR is not alone in this regard. I recently had to go through the whole “testing” ordeal with Toyota in order to claim a battery warranty. It’s pretty common among manufacturers
I bought the CTEK CT5 trickle charger and currently have connected CTEK 56-382 Indicator Eyelet M8 to the jump start poles under the bonnet.
I am usually doing very short journeys now so use EV only mode. When I get back the Indicator shows Green, but then quickly goes to Orange or even Red.
I assume this is because the 12V battery doesn't charge when driving in EV mode?
I have used Battery Tender on all my cars for years, usually using the jump start terminals. They work very well. Car manufacturers seem to have an engineering department figuring out how to make the battery inaccessable. CTEK and NOCO are also good brands. Make sure they are chargers and maintainers and good for AGM batteries. The higher amp (and more expensive) charge faster, but once charged, they all maintain the same. PS the NOCO jump starter is great also.
LOVE THIS!!! Just charged my Defender yesterday. I hadn't driven it in like a month and it gave me the hardest time trying to start up. Usually it just whines about low battery and after driving I'm good. Whenever I get back, I hook it up. This time it wouldn't start until the fourth set of profanity and button pushing. Not sure which finally convinced it to turn over, but I definitely charged it again and was scheming about just installing a remote / outside the bay plug for my CTEK. I was vaguely remembering someone who ran it to the rear of the Defender. I liked that as it had a lower chance of getting fouled (aka, "reproduced") up than if it were in the front. THIS, however, I could go with. Somehow that little plastic cover that I plan to completely plane off while doing something stupid makes me fantasize that it will be the bomb. I am ordering one now! Thanks for the idea.
