This week in my 2020 110 X
#1
This week in my 2020 110 X
Tons of fun on the 2020 (Dec 2020 build) X ... which is still on 3.0.0 of Pivi pro:
It appears something has been possessed. Have restarted Pivi and charged battery with the correct charger.
- Nav will not let me input destination. In fact Nav does not work at all. Its frozen 100% of the time. The center screen in the instrument cluster is set to display the map and it's frozen on some other random location.
- Cameras do not turn on when parking
- Rain sensing wipers refuse to sense rain and activate
- Center screen goes grey and blank and reboots one time about 90 seconds after I start the Defender
- If I do not turn off Auto Start Stop the thing dies in traffic
Super bummed. I'm trying to decide if I take it to dealer (3 weeks out on Appts and it was just there for 3 weeks and when I got it back, this all seemed to start) or wait for the 3.1 OTA update.
Ideas?
PS still love it etc etc.
It appears something has been possessed. Have restarted Pivi and charged battery with the correct charger.
- Nav will not let me input destination. In fact Nav does not work at all. Its frozen 100% of the time. The center screen in the instrument cluster is set to display the map and it's frozen on some other random location.
- Cameras do not turn on when parking
- Rain sensing wipers refuse to sense rain and activate
- Center screen goes grey and blank and reboots one time about 90 seconds after I start the Defender
- If I do not turn off Auto Start Stop the thing dies in traffic
Super bummed. I'm trying to decide if I take it to dealer (3 weeks out on Appts and it was just there for 3 weeks and when I got it back, this all seemed to start) or wait for the 3.1 OTA update.
Ideas?
PS still love it etc etc.
#3
I don't think that the 3.1 OTA update will fix some of those. From what I vaguely recall from other postings, there are many things that must be done at the dealer. Usually things that are more "safety" oriented. This definitely sounds like something in some of the vehicle controllers are fried. Go ahead, set up the appointment and start the wait. Then you can race the 3.1 update! If the update comes in, great. You'll know if it worked (I doubt it). If it doesn't, you'll already have a head start. If the appointment comes first (very likely), then you'll get the fix that you need.
BTW - What is the "appropriate charger"? I think I'm likely in the market for one hearing about everyone's battery draining issues. I figure I better get one BEFORE I desperately need it.
BTW - What is the "appropriate charger"? I think I'm likely in the market for one hearing about everyone's battery draining issues. I figure I better get one BEFORE I desperately need it.
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nashvegas (03-22-2022)
#4
A little slower than the big ones and it won't do a jump start but that didn't matter to me.
https://www.optimabatteries.com/prod...oaAgNQEALw_wcB
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mopadzi (03-23-2022)
#5
#6
Re: the "correct" charger, basically, a charger is not a charger is not a charger anymore. How annoying, right? The Defender has an "AGM" battery.
So on a charger like the image below, for the Defender instead of using the "Car" setting, you should use "AGM".
BTW, I do not use cigarette lighter chargers... underhood terminals only. Too many variables with sockets powering off, not allowing current to pass after things go to sleep, or otherwise ECU's staying awake when perhaps they should not be. Every car is a bit different. Some are fine with cigarette chargers, some are not. Unsure about L663 / other JLR Rovers.
Why AGM mode? Battery type has an impact on how to best charge. The L663 Defender has an AGM battery. So if you use a standard "CTEK" / intelligent charger, for a Defender, you ideally select "AGM mode" as on above image. Older chargers actually had this for your ski trip to Vermont or the cold areas, and called this "winter" mode with a snowflake ion it (I have an old 2010 or so CTEK battery charger that has a picture of the snowflake). Same thing basically because standard flooded lead acid batteries can explode if you charge them too fast in extremely low temps.
The headline is a normal battery charger will charge at whatever volts and amps, and AGM setting alters the charging profile to be less aggressive. Again, I'm not exactly an electoronics engineer but it seems simple enough.
Lots of good resources to read all about this online, different chargers apply for LI-ION (supercars, exotics, even BMW M cars, these batteries cost 900, 1200, 1500 bucks and are lightweight and last a very long time when maintained), AGM (like in the Defender and most newer Euro premium cars w/ start stop), and standard flooded lead acid batteries (older cars).
So for example, I now have 3 battery chargers for the fleet:
-- Regular charger for my old RRC and Disco II
-- I have an 86 Porsche Turbo and swapped to an Li-Ion battery for weight and lack of outgassing (battery gas causes corrosion...), and I was surprised that the battery vendor was very clear that had to buy another charger for it, specific to Lithium Ion batteries.
-- The CTEK charger pictured above, that I use on the Defender with AGM mode (which I could use on the RRC and D2 in Car mode)
So on a charger like the image below, for the Defender instead of using the "Car" setting, you should use "AGM".
BTW, I do not use cigarette lighter chargers... underhood terminals only. Too many variables with sockets powering off, not allowing current to pass after things go to sleep, or otherwise ECU's staying awake when perhaps they should not be. Every car is a bit different. Some are fine with cigarette chargers, some are not. Unsure about L663 / other JLR Rovers.
Why AGM mode? Battery type has an impact on how to best charge. The L663 Defender has an AGM battery. So if you use a standard "CTEK" / intelligent charger, for a Defender, you ideally select "AGM mode" as on above image. Older chargers actually had this for your ski trip to Vermont or the cold areas, and called this "winter" mode with a snowflake ion it (I have an old 2010 or so CTEK battery charger that has a picture of the snowflake). Same thing basically because standard flooded lead acid batteries can explode if you charge them too fast in extremely low temps.
The headline is a normal battery charger will charge at whatever volts and amps, and AGM setting alters the charging profile to be less aggressive. Again, I'm not exactly an electoronics engineer but it seems simple enough.
Lots of good resources to read all about this online, different chargers apply for LI-ION (supercars, exotics, even BMW M cars, these batteries cost 900, 1200, 1500 bucks and are lightweight and last a very long time when maintained), AGM (like in the Defender and most newer Euro premium cars w/ start stop), and standard flooded lead acid batteries (older cars).
So for example, I now have 3 battery chargers for the fleet:
-- Regular charger for my old RRC and Disco II
-- I have an 86 Porsche Turbo and swapped to an Li-Ion battery for weight and lack of outgassing (battery gas causes corrosion...), and I was surprised that the battery vendor was very clear that had to buy another charger for it, specific to Lithium Ion batteries.
-- The CTEK charger pictured above, that I use on the Defender with AGM mode (which I could use on the RRC and D2 in Car mode)
Last edited by nashvegas; 03-22-2022 at 11:23 AM.
#7
Trust me if the world were "normal" I'd be doing that. Unfortunately now our dealer more than likely won't put me in an actual Land Rover loaner (I think they have only a very few JLR loaners, they'll run me down the road to Enterprise Rental which is nice that they pay for but I'd rather drive one of my other cars than whatever Enterprise has), and then they take forever, and don't actually fix anything, and can't get parts lol. So after my last service visit, which took 3 weeks, 3 issues are "parts ordered with unknown ETA"...
Last edited by nashvegas; 03-22-2022 at 11:20 AM.
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karlos73
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07-20-2021 08:12 PM