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You should snug up the damper nut a bit to keep it from fatiguing more and breaking. Unfortunately, the replacement mount service bulletin is just a band-aid fix. Rear hollow shaft damper and binding angles from bushings seem to be causing this.
also the damper cannister falls off of these things......
yes - the dealer fixed my right rear shock under warranty. However I still get a weird rattle in the back over rough surfaces due to something else. Still have to investigate that. But the original rattle from the shock was addressed!CUSTOMER STATES THERE IS A RATTLING SOUND COMING FROM THE REAR
SUSPENSION SEE VIDEOS FOR MORE INFORMATION CHECK AND ADVISE
**SOP HERE STRUT**
CSNO
• CUSTOMER STATES
THERE IS A RATTLING SOUND
COMING FROM THE REAR SUSPENSION SEE VIDEOS FOR MORE INFORMATION CHECK AND ADVISE **SOP
HERE STRUT**
8170
WR
1 LR140226 REINFORCEMENT -
1 LR161563
WASHER
1 LR161350 BUMPER - SHOCK A LR034227 NUT - FLANGED
1 LR034276 SEAL - STRUT TOP
PARTS:
0.00
LABOR:
0.00 OTHER:
0.00
TOTAL LINE A:
45393 Replace right rear upper shock mount and hard ware that was on order.
Originally Posted by iajknip
was this resolved at the dealer, and is it an easy fix ? I have the same problem.
QUOTE=ponder;865631]Wanted to get a broader set of perspectives - if this will still be okay for over a 1K mile drive. (Have a quick trip next week and will be at dealer week after)
A few on instagram were helpful to mention that this could be the adaptive damper / active air suspension. Some say it shouldn’t move; definitely not rattle. Happy to have anyone else confirm what it may be.
I have nearly 30k miles on my rig. The noise started to happen a week+ ago from the rear; and today I took everything out and had someone sit in the back to find out what the rattle was… and it was this thing.
Left side (driver) moves but is silent; right side (passenger) is way louder when it moves. Moves when I’m on roughy roads. Silent on smooth roads (doesn’t move).
The metal bit below the wiring / plug in the center is what moves up and down; and causing the rattle. Only moves when in rough road; leading me to think it’s adaptive dampening / suspension. Close up Farther away.
I had a similar noise on my non-adaptive damper. I took apart the back trim pieces and sat there while my son drove. The noise was coming from the mount clear as day - or so I thought. It was a loose sway bar end-link. Tightening it stopped the noise, but they ended replacing the link since it had some play in it.
great additional insight as I look to find the other rattle. That sway bar link. Is that inside or outside the car?
funniky enough another rattle I had was from m internal black brace bar and the bolts needed to be tightened.
Also - fully did the same thing. Drove with my girlfriend in the back and had her drive while I was in the back. lol.
Originally Posted by cgardnerma
I had a similar noise on my non-adaptive damper. I took apart the back trim pieces and sat there while my son drove. The noise was coming from the mount clear as day - or so I thought. It was a loose sway bar end-link. Tightening it stopped the noise, but they ended replacing the link since it had some play in it.
Gavin, were you able to check this on your 7 seater? I want to inspect my shocks due to a similar noise in the area and want to avoid taking the entire boot apart if possible. Was it as simple as removing that trim piece?
Gavin, were you able to check this on your 7 seater? I want to inspect my shocks due to a similar noise in the area and want to avoid taking the entire boot apart if possible. Was it as simple as removing that trim piece?
It's a load of work to get to the upper part of the shock in the 7 seater. I had a go and immediately bailed. I think the rear seats may have to come out. I'd be sure to bork something up. I have a dealer visit and a drive with the tech scheduled in May. I sent them the video of what I reckon is at fault and they were very upset.
I know that's what it is though. I can make the rattle go away by going into off-road height. Gone 100% as the shock lengthens and takes up the slack on the mount. I don't know but that's my guess. It's more obvious when it's a cold system. Again I'm theorizing that the dampening shocks heat up under cycles and the fluid in them gets more resilient and again less slack in the system. Again possibly nonsense.
Dealer tried to blame my sliders jiggling on the bolt for the compressed air tank underneath. As theories go, that one is dumb as rocks. Also the noise preceded slider install.
It's a load of work to get to the upper part of the shock in the 7 seater. I had a go and immediately bailed. I think the rear seats may have to come out. I'd be sure to bork something up. I have a dealer visit and a drive with the tech scheduled in May. I sent them the video of what I reckon is at fault and they were very upset.
I know that's what it is though. I can make the rattle go away by going into off-road height. Gone 100% as the shock lengthens and takes up the slack on the mount. I don't know but that's my guess. It's more obvious when it's a cold system. Again I'm theorizing that the dampening shocks heat up under cycles and the fluid in them gets more resilient and again less slack in the system. Again possibly nonsense.
Dealer tried to blame my sliders jiggling on the bolt for the compressed air tank underneath. As theories go, that one is dumb as rocks. Also the noise preceded slider install.
interesting, I just tried the same. Put mine in off-road height and the clunk seems to be 95% gone. Must be the rear shock. Damnit.
wonder if using the EAS control on the GAP IID tool is a quick bandaid fix? Maybe raising an inch?
