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2004 D2 Overland Build

Old Apr 15, 2021 | 10:54 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by zski128
In my opinion yes, it’s an extremely well build shaft and no balance problems. The price is also very good compared to other options.
Gotta link or something? I'd like the check it out. I'm in the market
 
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 11:47 AM
  #42  
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/283705844704

I saw other members here recommend this place and gave it a try.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2021 | 02:46 PM
  #43  
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Some work to get done this weekend, RTE castor corrected arms and adjustable panhard are in. Toyo OpenCountry AT3s are here as well. I went with 265/70r18 which is just about a 33 inch tire.





 
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Old Apr 30, 2021 | 10:53 AM
  #44  
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Tires mounted! The aftermarket tire carrier give just enough room for 33’s. Slightly better stance versus stock




 
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Old May 1, 2021 | 12:40 PM
  #45  
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any chance you could measure from the center of the bushed side to where the end of the rod on the hiemed side? If that makes sense. Thanks!
 
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Old May 1, 2021 | 02:39 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by whowa004
any chance you could measure from the center of the bushed side to where the end of the rod on the hiemed side? If that makes sense. Thanks!
I assume you are talking about the panhard bar. I haven’t installed it yet and got an alignment but will let you know once I do.
 
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Old May 1, 2021 | 08:42 PM
  #47  
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No worries, I'm not too worried about eye to eye distance. was just looking for a baseline of how much was removed to weld in the threaded insert on the heim side.
 
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Old May 2, 2021 | 03:02 PM
  #48  
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From the center of the bush to the end is about 29 1/4. From end to end it’s 30”. That measurement does not include the Heim joint obviously.
 

Last edited by zski128; May 10, 2021 at 02:52 PM.
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Old May 10, 2021 | 02:56 PM
  #49  
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Radius arms and all new TF steering components installed. It was a fairly painless process other than a couple of the radius arms bolts where frozen in place. I had ordered replacement bolts for this very reason. The steering is night and day. Yeah it was Ok with the stocks arms with a 3” lift on the highway but now drives like new.

I followed the steps here:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...arm-how-79575/



Side by side, RTE castor corrected vs stock radius arms




 

Last edited by zski128; Jul 14, 2021 at 02:52 PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2021 | 09:12 PM
  #50  
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Received my DarkCrow sliders and front bumper about a month ago and have been slowly getting them painted and mounted. It’s rained every single day in July here and I really don’t want to spray them
in my garage so that has delayed me. I managed to get the sliders prepped/primed/painted over the course of a few dry mornings. Not hard work as long as you have the correct tools. A right angle drill is required with a shortest 1/2” drill bit you can find to get some of the holes done, specifically on the rocker side underneath the truck. I went with Raptor liner in a rattle can after some research.



As delivered off the lift gate

Prepped with brake clean and wiped down with microfiber cloth. Finish welds where very good with very little sanding required.

Three coats of Raptor liner from rattle cans. It took about 4 cans total.

Make sure the pocket for the rocker panel is lined up flush to the front before you start drilling.

Great fitment and follows the body lines nicely

Right angle drill is a must. The left most hole on the rear door is impossible to drill straight otherwise.


During all of this my starter failed when I went to flip the truck around in my garage for more room to work. Tried jumping it by pulling the starter relay in the engine compartment but no luck. Luckily I had the used starter from a parts truck to swap in. The old one was a reman from Napa with about 60k miles since it was replaced. I did notice the shop that replaced it never installed the heat shield and perhaps that slowly cooked it over the years. It took me longer to get the heat shield Installed than it took to swap the starter but hopefully that extends the life.
 
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