Looking at just sill for now.

Jason

 

With the age and sill condition of these trucks a frame mounted option would be a good option.
Even with C channel used to go around my sills, rust triumphed and my sills crushed and sliders tweaked upward. Made the doors hard to open. I plan on modifying my sliders to tie the back into the frame, like the RockWare style.

$500 is a good price point.

 

Thanks Fish,

I was thinking around 4-450$ for a set of my sill sliders (no nerf tube) bare metal. These are a full front sill mount with 2 back side sill mount/backing plates.

I've been looking at the frame mounting. I want to offer that for the client that needs/wants it as well. There seems to be huge controversy over which is better and preferred. I've always run frame "bolt-on" sliders and have never had an issue on any of my rigs. I use a U-Bolt style on my LandCruiser sliders and they have taken a beating. My rigs and my customers alike. I will pursue it for the frame mount style.

I don't like the 2 bolts (4) total mount bolts that this frame slider uses by itself. The "bumper" stop implies that it will more than likely RISE to the occasion and prove my thoughts correct. With or without it being there to protect the sill the system is a bust for me. The bumper tells me that without it the slider has moved enough to be an issue in the past. Whether the designer found it or a customer (my vote-customer) I would add a minimum of one if not two extra frame runner arms that tie straight into the frame and lose that bumper. Now just to figure it out and keep the runners from being crap grabbers at the same time..

For a DIY guy with SKILLZ its easy. But trying to design these products to be dependable, strong and aesthetically pleasing (NOT TO MENTION getting them to a 1-2 banana install job) for the normal masses gets pretty involved and why most systems never reach market or don't last long if they do and don't meet the above criteria.

I sell my cruiser frame sliders for 550-625$ bare metal. So I think your 500$ mark is easily attainable if not a little high, pending the final jig out time of course.

The sill version will be out ASAP, I'll work and study the frame version during the R&D of the sill version. Never know I might get lucky and have them out together.. HA!

Thanks

Jason

 

sill mount and no nerf I would say $400-425

 

Looks like I'm about there.

J

 

True. Most people will want/prefer something they can slap on with minimum fuss and by themselves. So a frame option really isn't for everyone.
Keep up the good work!

 

Exactly,

The next 9-10 days and then to the end of January will be busy to finish the D1 R&D, meet with my laser/cnc guys and get going on more Rover R&D while filling other orders.

I've been contemplating a rear quarter panel cut for my rear bumper design. I'm usually not a fan of sheetmetal vasectomy, but unless I do, I don't see a clean way to tie back into the frame AND BE at a minimum OE/stock body height. Meaning I don't want a trailing arm dangling. I refuse to tie the bumper wing into the body. If I trim 2-3" then I can get a good line on the frame support arm and also make some good clearance for the tail of the rig.


Models now would be:

Base bumper, more or less an OE armor look. No frills able to accept OE lights. (I'm thinking this model might disappear, quickly)

Base w/ cut quarter guards

Loaded-- with integrated swing arm and option for Hi-Lift and RotPax/jerry can, LED light pole.

Thoughts?

J

 

THANK YOU. Far too many companies, even well respected ones like RTE, tie the bumper wings into the quarterpanel sheetmetal for bracing. Awful idea with awful results. Running a brace back to the frame really isn't that hard and makes all the difference. Nice work!

 

YES SIR! There's a reason why the manufacturers put those rubber thingies between the frame and body of ALL VEHICLES PRODUCED (well that I've ever seen anyway)....

J

 

look at a series rover or defender next time you are around one