Clancy '97 D1
You can get corrected front radius arms which are also a tad longer. You can space the rear trailing arms back usinglarge washers. Keep in mind your driveline angles when doing so.
That said, you ahould not need to push your axleals. There's no tire you can fit on a 2" lift that necessitates pushing the axles.
A camel cut is all you need.
That said, you ahould not need to push your axleals. There's no tire you can fit on a 2" lift that necessitates pushing the axles.
A camel cut is all you need.
You can get corrected front radius arms which are also a tad longer. You can space the rear trailing arms back usinglarge washers. Keep in mind your driveline angles when doing so.
That said, you ahould not need to push your axleals. There's no tire you can fit on a 2" lift that necessitates pushing the axles.
A camel cut is all you need.
That said, you ahould not need to push your axleals. There's no tire you can fit on a 2" lift that necessitates pushing the axles.
A camel cut is all you need.
I don't think the axles are an issue until 3" or larger lift and 35" plus tires. My intended ~32"ish tires will be just fine.
J
We had about 8" dumped on us the other night. Seems like it is going to be a wet and snowy winter. Been awhile, usually cold and icy here.
J
Exactly. And you really can't push the rear axle back too far until you run into clearance issues where the rear floor meets the wheel arches. Only 3 ways to fix that.
1) Severely limit uptravel
2) Jack your truck waaaay up, like 5" springs
3) Cut and reweld the floor/arch
1) Severely limit uptravel
2) Jack your truck waaaay up, like 5" springs
3) Cut and reweld the floor/arch
Exactly. And you really can't push the rear axle back too far until you run into clearance issues where the rear floor meets the wheel arches. Only 3 ways to fix that.
1) Severely limit uptravel
2) Jack your truck waaaay up, like 5" springs
3) Cut and reweld the floor/arch
1) Severely limit uptravel
2) Jack your truck waaaay up, like 5" springs
3) Cut and reweld the floor/arch
I would just like to get my wheels back in the center of the wells when the time comes......the pinched and puckered look bother's me.
Going to bring Clancy back into the shop this week.
Need to finish bleeding the brakes. I must have really pulled some air into the system when changing that one caliper. I have to stand on the pedal now to get him to stop. Hopefully it is just a simple ring a round the rosy a few times and back to normal. RR,LR, RF and LF is my pattern.
Then onto the fun stuff...
J
Need to finish bleeding the brakes. I must have really pulled some air into the system when changing that one caliper. I have to stand on the pedal now to get him to stop. Hopefully it is just a simple ring a round the rosy a few times and back to normal. RR,LR, RF and LF is my pattern.
Then onto the fun stuff...
J
that looks great, it really does.
I have question though shouldn't the weight be carried by the A B C D pillars?
in other words should the front and rear brackets be pushed out to the ends of the rack, rather than setting the weight over window openings? the weight would be transferred to the A & D pillars. just an idea
great work
I have question though shouldn't the weight be carried by the A B C D pillars?
in other words should the front and rear brackets be pushed out to the ends of the rack, rather than setting the weight over window openings? the weight would be transferred to the A & D pillars. just an idea
great work
Last edited by drowssap; Dec 22, 2015 at 08:16 AM.
that looks great, it really does.
I have question though shouldn't the weight be carried by the A B C D pillars?
in other words should the front and rear brackets be pushed out to the ends of the rack, rather than setting the weight over window openings? the weight would be transferred to the A & D pillars. just an idea
great work
I have question though shouldn't the weight be carried by the A B C D pillars?
in other words should the front and rear brackets be pushed out to the ends of the rack, rather than setting the weight over window openings? the weight would be transferred to the A & D pillars. just an idea
great work
Thanks for the kind words Drow. I will be cleaning up the front of the rack today.
In a perfect world the load should be placed as close to, on/over the pillars as we are taught/told.
The A-pillar is the only one that it is really hard to get a mount close to.
Most companies build so the mount feet are equal in distance from one another to be more load bearing and that their deflection calculations are similar across the length of the rack. This also makes them look more proportionate on the rack, but not as functional for a true load bearing design, unless there are several of them.. 8-12 mounts, IMO.
After all the racks I've built over the years and actually field tested.... The gutter rail is what takes the true abuse of the system, not the pillars. The best thing to do is have a mount with a wide foot (3"-6") to even further distribute the load. Less psi per running load width is what we are after.
I'd honestly be comfortable loading this rack up (RTT and 200-300# gear) with 6 mounts and none being placed over any of the pillars and hitting the trails, etc..
Jason
Last edited by Trail-Tailor; Dec 22, 2015 at 09:06 AM.


