Thanks guys.

 

Thanks Drow, I've had a lot of interest in the front and have a company out West that wants to stock it (5-10 at a time).

But, I just have a vision that I need to try and fulfill. It's just me. Cutting the grill and core opens a ton of design avenues, but it just opens up too many customer issues in the long run. Therefore, while I may not build for the masses the others turn into a one on one client relatinship and that is what my company basis has always been about.

I hope I nail the swing arm on the first try... I DOUBT IT THOUGH! !HA!

I'm actually taking a day off from it and letting the brain rest. Finish up the sliders and start back on the swing tomorrow. Need to feel accomplished at the moment..

Jason

 

Question: How does it attach to the frame?

Critique: The wings on the side look very large. Having the steel covering the trim effects the lines of the truck and almost makes the bumper look out of place. Maybe stop the metal just below the trim line. Bottorf was a shyster but the wings on his rear bumper looked OK. Bottorf Fabrication new D1 Rear Bumper - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

 

Fish, I will run 3/8" strap across the bottom and inner sides (red) attach with a vertical stiffner/support runner to the frame (green). Couple of spots I can see to use without having to drill etc. Haven't narrowed that down yet.

The top edge is about 3/8" below the body line above the trim piece and follows the body line perfectly. Yes, it looks big, but it mirrors the quarter panel perfectly. I wanted this particular bumper to be very Kaymar-esque.

I have gotten a ton of emails over the past 10 months (68 to be exact) asking if I would build this exact style of bumper. The trail/rock crawler base are not the only ones I build products for. The overland base clients are truly my main push, even with my LandCruiser designs. At the same time I build different styles for the other clients as well, just as I will do for the Rovers.

I plan on 2 or 3- D1 and D2 rear bumper offerings. So bare with me. I have been evaluating products for several months.I have over 200 marked-up /painted bumpers. But, until I build them and can put my hands on them I just don't know. Just like the front bumper, it was made from a mark up. I liked it at first and now I don't care for it.

Jason

 

Finished up the mock up on the sill sliders today. The ends are pitched upwards to match the body. I have right at 1/2" between the bottom door/panel and the slider.

Too much or tighten them up an 1/8" or 3/16" Easy to do.

3" x 2" x .188 rectangle with 3/16" mount plates with slotted holes and 3/8" stainless carriage bolts with nyloc nuts.

Jason

 

again nicely done

the 1/2 looks OK, i dont think I would go to an 1/8 of an inch.
at an 1/8 you may run into fitment problems between vehicles.

 

I figured that the 1/2" might help those that run into door opening issues after they beat the crap out of them. But, think I will shrink the gap to 3/8". My jig is about set up for these, so it will be easy to open or close this gap in the future if a customer wants that option.

Thanks again drow,

I need two measurements off the D2 and then they will be available as soon as the D1 sliders are ready.

CALLING @armyrover again.

Jason

 

i have the p-38 today, but what measures do you need i can get them later for you

 

Just want to make check these for the up pitch on the ends. I'm pretty sure they are the same since most say that the D1/D2 sliders interchange. But, that may be on straight versions only.

All help is appreciated,

Jason

 

i'll see if i can pull out a protractor when i get home, I like the angle cut must more than the straight