Yes the fuel pump is working according to my mechanic friend. I've examined the top end as well as the bottom end and cannot detect any fuel leaks. No fuel odor. I tried pressing the inertia switch but it felt hard and did not make any clicking noise when I pressed it. I pulled the cps out and used electrical parts cleaner and a ting brush to clean out the dielectric grease. Also sprayed the mating connector that the cps plugs into. Refitted the cleaned sensor and made dam sure it was fully plugged in. Tried cranking the engine again and it sounds as it did before. I hooked up my handheld foxwell scan tool to read live data. No rpm reading even while cranking. My mechanic friend says this is a issue and advised I replace the cps. However I dont believe the sensor is bad because it was replaced with a new unit afew months ago. I had no issues with it prior to doing the head gasket job neither. But I may try to swap it our for another unit. If that dont work I can unbolt the upper manifold plenum and try moving the harness around and seeing if i can trace the cps wire so I can look for any damages to it. Other than that I'm at loss.

 

Fuel. Air. Spark.
Depress the Schrader valve. Do you have fuel at the rail? As mentioned, it may take a while to prime and pressurize the system.

 

My mechanic friend believes this is an issue with the cps. He briefly looked at my truck. Charged up the battery. Checked the grounds etc. He said the fuel pump is working but that I'm not getting any signal to the computer to turn on the coils and injectors. He explained that nothing comes on if the computer does not see the rpms. He advised I pull the cps apart and clean it out and reconnect it, making sure its tight. I tried that and no change.

 

I hope the CPS wire didn't get pinched like the Knock sensor wire. It's the same exact type of shielded wire and you can't just splice it back together. ECU will not read the CPS signal properly.

 

If you slathered the dielectric grease into the CkPS sockets you can very possibly cross connect the electrical which is ground, power and signal. It's an ECU powered magnet and it worked before the head gasket change. The Coils are fused, unlikely but check their fuse, F14 20A in passenger compartment fuse box. The Coils also use a relay, R4 and near the spare fuses in the engine compartment box. Pull it, check blades for corrosion and clean or just re-seat it. Coils also have control lines, make sure they're plugged back in....... I've had issues with head gasket replacements and if it didn't fire on first pull it was always my fault because they ran when they came to me.

 

I worked on a D2 that had just had a HG job performed at a shop. When they went to fire it up they were stumped and then I got to look at it. What did I find??? I found the coil wire for the drivers side coil pack completely crushed between the block/head..... I can't say it enough, but whenever you have an engine torn down make absolutely certain all the wiring is secured and up out of the way. It just takes one wire to get crushed/broken & the vehicle is DOA.

 

The primary harness is currently underneath the upper intake plenum and feeds out the driver side. I suspect that it should not be under the plenum like that but noted that there is not much slack in the harness and with the fuel injector wires being part of the harness I did not want to try and tug the harness too much. So maybe the wires are getting pinched there? In the AB DIY video Doug does not elaborate on where the harness should sit when putting everything back together.

The ignition coil connectors on either side are definitely plugged in. As mentioned afew times above indent think 9ts an issue with fuel. When I hook up a scanner to read the line data while cranking I'm getting no rpm readings on the scanner. If your cranking, and everything inside the block is moving as it should then a signal should be being sent to the computer. So for now we gotta narrow it down to whatever is linked to the reading of the rpms and what transfers the signal. I have a new cps on it's way and I will swap it in tonight just for the hell of it. If still no rpms then I'll have to pull the plenum and inspect the harness.

PS: Does anyone know where I can source a knock sensor harness? Does not appear to be a available replacement part for our vehicles. I've seen some cheap knock sensor harnesses complete with plugs for other makes and models that are dirt cheap. Wonder if I could use one of them?

 

Donor car would be your best bet. LR PN wise = entire harness.

 

I pulled the plenum and inspected what wires I can actually see. None appear to be damaged. Insulation in tact. Now with the valve covers on I cannot reach down to grab ahold of the wire for the cps. But it was not in a pinch zone anyways. But I do recall a section of the harness having a metal washer like thing attached to it. Is this a ground and should ot be bolted to the truck? I could not determine where it bolted onto so i left it alone.

 

If the "metal washer like thing" has a black wire attached to it then it's a ground wire. If not then it's a harness strap to keep the harness from flopping around. Might want to spend the time on it now. By the way, CPS is the Cam Position Sensor, CkPS is the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The CPS is for injection, the CkPS is for spark. If you don't learn the terms then your confusing everyone who might be able to help when you screw something up or are trying to troubleshoot a no start. Tach RPM signal comes from the Alternator, not the CkPS. Make sure the Alternator is hooked up correctly.